Whenever I see a notched lapel these days, I can’t help but feel a little disappointed. It’s not that I have anything against the poor old notch but it is simply that its continual deployment, in suits of varying formality and style, is rather excessive. I have duly bemoaned the practice of producing dinner suits, and even white tie tailcoats, with a notched lapel as an act of design laziness. And although some might bite back when I vocalise my disdain with the words ‘What’s wrong with the notched lapel?’ I might easily riposte, ‘Well, what happened to the peak lapel?’

Sartorially blind men cannot, and will not, see the difference between the two. Such a slight distinction would surely go unnoticed, they argue. I would disagree. In actual fact, a peak or a notch can make or break the aesthetics of the suit. It can be the difference between a winner and a clanger. With patterned suits this becomes particularly evident. My rule with checked suits is always to select a peak lapel, unless the suit is a casual three-button one. Check patterns draw the eye to right angles; the notch becomes conspicuous. The purpose of the notch or the peak is not to draw attention to itself. It is there to assist with the ‘flow’ of the suit.

With striped suits this issue becomes less important but I personally consider that striped suits are more formal suits and should, ideally, be made with a matching waistcoat for the colder times of year. A formal suit, and a three-piece one, should be made with a peak lapel. Notches look amateurish. If you need a guide for the lapel/formality issue, have a look at the double-breasted jacket. More formal than its single-breasted cousin, it always has a peak lapel.

Beyond the question of formality, there is the issue of flattery. Peak lapels are an excellent choice for men with narrow shoulders as the peaks themselves ‘point’ outwards to each shoulder, exaggerating their width. With a tailored waist, this flatters the wearer’s torso – wider shoulders and a narrow waist are the ideal.

Naturally, there are jackets for which a peak lapel would be too formal. Three button jackets should always be notched as the lapels are too short to allow the peak to work properly – proper peaks look like razor sharp blades cutting down the face of the suit; the longer the better. Country tweeds are less formal and should have notched lapels. The same goes for linen jackets and casual corduroys, but plain City suits can be either peaked or notched, depending on personal taste and planned usage. If you wish to look like a relaxed, prosciutto chewing Italian the notch is what you need. If however you’re wanting to be seen as a rakish, oyster gulping Brit the peak will help you look the part.

If ever you receive an invitation to an event that reads ‘Black Tie’ and utter a weary groan, it’s probable that you are simply not equipped for the occasion. If you rent your dinner suit, this groan is likely to be accompanied by an overbearing sense of shame and waste; the depressing journey to the renters, the awkward sizes, the regret at paying hard earned cash for a substandard item that will never even be yours. It all adds up to a remarkably unhappy experience.

The most frequently cited reason for a chap not owning a decent dinner suit is that the one-off expense of the purchase is simply not worthwhile. Black tie functions still happen, they contend, but they’re rarer and rarer; an acquaintance informed me they’d only been invited to one in the last three years. Admittedly, a dinner suit gets used far less than any other suit a gentleman might own but that alone should be no bar to making the investment.

The majority of functions to which a gentleman will wear black tie are social functions and a great number, at least in my experience, are occasions I would refer to as ‘social-professional’; in other words, they pertain to the person’s workplace or career. At such occasions, there are considerable opportunities to make the case for progression and promotion. Looking the part can be incredibly important. Most of the people I know who have been promoted quickly, if not prematurely, are people who are confident and convey the sense of natural belonging; if, in addition to meriting such a position, you look like you belong in the boardroom, it probably won’t be too long before you’re there.

My advice would be to get your dinner suit made to measure. Too many off the rack tuxedos look the same, are of dubious quality and, important to mention this, are invariably in need of correction. Many men chuckle about being James Bond when they pull on their dinner suit but how many of these men are wearing suits worthy of the association? And how many are pulling on polyester, satin striped trousers, clip on poly bow ties, enormous shirts and overlong, notched sheen lapel jackets? At a function it is important to suit the drink you are holding. Gentlemen attired so poorly will look utterly lost with their dry martini. The tailored dinner suit may not be worn all that often, but when it is, the effect will be devastating.

My advice would be to get a one button single breasted jacket in black or midnight blue (the latter is preferred) with peaked lapels – this is crucial, notched lapels are too casual – with a ribbed silk, not satin, face. Your shirt should ideally be made to measure also with a turn down collar that is not too cutaway as the bow should always have a little ‘seat.’ Trousers should be, naturally, of the same material and should have double stitch piping, and not a satin stripe, down the leg. The trousers should be pleated (ideally double pleats) and not flat fronted as flat fronted trousers are too informal for this most formal of suits. Buttons on such a suit should not be too showy but they should be slightly better than the standard black plastic. A ribbed silk ‘shank’ button is ideal.

The waistcoat issue is simple; I wear one in winter and not in summer. I would always get one made with a dinner suit, single or double breasted with, importantly, shawl collar lapels. Finally, invest in some patent Oxfords or opera pumps, buy some black silk socks, always wear a matte, silk bow that you tie yourself and when it comes to pocket squares, when in doubt, always fold a square of white cotton.

The chances are, your first tailor made suit was a cautious, conservative choice. This prudence is perfectly natural; to choose a solid grey with two buttons, notched lapels and standard pocket and button configurations. ‘Standard’ is useful. ‘Safe’ is a refuge in times of uncertainty. ‘Sensible’ works.

However, for your second tailor made suit, you should try something a little different. Nothing too outrageous, as outrageous suits are only really for those who already consider themselves ‘well-stocked’ and don’t mind splashing out on something frivolous. Something they might only wear when they require the attention of all passers by. Consider the ingredients that go to make an unusual, more individual suit.

COLOUR

Your second suit could perhaps be an unusual colour. Though dark blue or mid-grey were the likely choices for your first suit, now that you have broken through this inevitable formal opening ceremony, you can start to wade through the colour spectrum with a little more ease. Mid-blues and light greys have character and can look quite sleek and chic – a la Mad Men – if made in a simple, slim-fit single breasted style with one or two buttons. Brown worsted is a wonderful choice for autumn, and a perfectly smart way in which to break the ‘No brown in town’ rule.

PATTERN

Chalk stripes are back and there is no better season for them than the impending one. When made well they have a gorgeous, sepia quality, reminiscent of a Gregory Peck or Cary Grant ensemble. They look very smart in a three-piece format – a double breasted version with lapels would be particularly fine – and it is always a good idea to get striped suits made properly; i.e. with proper pattern matching.

Window checks are particularly English and rather Marmite-ish; some adore them, some hate them. I think if the suit is well cut, the pattern matched properly and the shirt and tie choice sensible, it is difficult to dislike the charm of such a suit. No one looks miserable or old in a window check suit. Add a natty lining and you’ll smile every time you put it on.

POCKETS

The chances are, the pocket configuration of your first suit was practical and cautious; two, non-slanted. As smart as this configuration is, you can really work with a suit to make the way your pockets sit a standalone feature; slanted pockets look rakish. They flatter the torso shape of the wearer by drawing attention to the slimmest part of the jacket. I also like adding a ticket pocket as the asymmetry is far more satisfying and interesting.

BUTTONS

Buttons are very noticeable on garments, especially at close range. They become the focus after the material and cut have been analysed. Getting ‘different’ buttons right is all about selecting colours and styles that work well together and about choosing the right sort of buttons for an occasion. On mid-blue suits, for example, dark horn buttons are one of the best choices as the brownish tones complement the coolness of the suit well. The effect is particularly striking on a double breasted suit. Wedding waistcoats look glorious when made with mother of pearl ‘shank’ buttons, grey chalk stripes look splendid with dark browns and evening jackets look best with ribbed silk shanks.

The other choice for buttons relates to the cuff. In my mind, the fewer the buttons the more formal the suit looks. The more buttons there are, and the more varied the spacing, the more casual it tends to look. I would encourage two buttons for very formal suits and up to five for less formal suits. Kissing buttons are rarer but no less formal than non-kissing buttons.