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Archive for May, 2010

They’re black. They’re boring.

Friday, May 28th, 2010

 And they’re at the end of your feet.  Take a good look – they’re your shoes.  And if you’re a bloke, you can bet your boots they’ll be bloody boring.

 They’ll be dark, drab and deadly dull with perhaps a pattern of punched holes and the odd forlorn tassel to enliven the tedium.  If you’re a bit on the wild side, you may have a pair of Birkenstock sandals or some canvas deck shoes secreted at the back of your wardrobe for those British “summer days”.

 So why is there an explosion of women’s shoes in every shape and form whilst men’s shoes remain so woefully lacking in imagination?

 It wasn’t always like this.  Back in the seventeenth century, the height of fashion for men was to wear enormous matching pom-poms on their shoes at court.  Not only were these highly decorative, they were also practical as they could be detached for outdoor wear.NPG 3840, George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham

Even my brother as a child, had a pair of Clark’s shoes which boasted a cunningly concealed compass in the sole and had an array of animal tracks on the sole.

 So why did men’s shoes become boring?  The Industrial Revolution meant men’s clothes became increasingly utilitarian whilst female attire continued merrily on its froufrou way.

 Another reason was that shoes in the middle-range price bracket have become commodities and are sold as such.  Gone are the days when they came lovingly nestled in tissue paper and cradled in a cardboard box to be placed reverently upon the feet by a prostrate shop assistant.  Shoes can now be thrown away the instant the owner becomes bored with them – in short, shoes and their owner are no longer in a long-term relationship.

Hudson shoes

Hudson Shoes

 So what can be done to get men’s shoes back on a more interesting track?  Men need to start demanding shoes that show a little more imagination and have a stamp of individuality on their soles.  They should learn to love their shoes and not slander them with nasty names such as winkle-pickers or brothel-creepers.

 Secondly, shoe makers need to start investing more time and money in slightly more adventurous designs.  One company, Hudson Shoes, has taken this onboard and is forging ahead with a rafter of stylish shoes and boots.  Their shoes sport some neat details that lift them above the ordinary dross and they’re reasonably priced.

So brothers-in-arms, rise and deliver yourselves from the tyranny of boring shoes and men everywhere can all put their best foot forward.

By Lindsey Nicholls

Hudson shoes
Hudson do some funky shoes

Thursday, May 20th, 2010

pocket square tut

Pocket squares, handkerchiefs, hanks, flourishes; call them what you will, their return is assured. When Burton and Next start selling them, you know that you can wear one in a dark London sidestreet pub without being laughed (or thrown) off the premises.

I have worn them for years, influenced by the artistry of grand old stars of the silver screen like Clark Gable and Fred Astaire who were rarely photographed without one. They are generally quite useless as few gentlemen would hand a prized silk square to a tearful lady obscured by mascara, although they can be used as a secondary lens wipe. Although not functional, they are aesthetically brilliant. When you begin to wear them, they look and feel odd. You will find yourself fiddling with them, straightening them, puffing them, overtly conscious of their presence in your top suit pocket; this period is awkward and slightly inelegant but it is simply one of the uncomfortable ‘initiations’ men are required to bear.

After becoming accustomed to this decoration, your pockets (and those of others), will look naked without it. You will graduate from the freshman plain white to sophomoric patterns like polka dots and unusual colours like burnt orange leading you to pursue, continually, the extraordinary; unusual checks and paisley are clear signs of a pocket square veteran.

Seasonal Combinations

The really pocket-conscious gentleman will not only cleverly match or tastefully contrast to the rest of his ensemble but will also dress his pocket according to the season. A dark plum silk worn with a birdseye navy suit is a classic autumn/winter combination, whereas a light pink silk worn with a khaki cotton suit is distinctly summertime.

Pastel colours are perfect for wearing with lighter suits as they do not ‘interrupt’ the suit too vividly. For the same reason, deeper tones are preferred with darker suits. If wearing a darker jacket in summertime, perhaps with an odd pair of linen trousers, it might be an idea to match a lighter square to the trousers or the shirt.

The material issue

Everyone thinks of silk when they think of pocket squares, despite the fact that most of the hanks stuffed in pockets of old were plain white cotton. Silk is certainly a beautiful fabric; perfect for stuffing and lustrous. However, considering the plethora of silk ties and ‘suits of a certain sheen’, adding another shiny bauble to an ensemble is often excessive. A lovely cotton or linen square, stuffed or folded into the top pocket, is the perfect foil; the importance of texture difference is one of the most underrated considerations of a gentleman’s attire.

By Winston Chesterfield

Reuters, Meiers & What Not To Wear

Monday, May 17th, 2010

Last week we were invited by Reuters news agency to appear on a new luxury and lifestyle TV format they are putting together ahead of the official launch of “Reuters Insider”.

Having specifically built a studio in a glass box at Canary Wharf for the occasion it seemed only proper we attend and get involved.The studio

The insider knowledge here was where to get your suits made (clearly us) thanks for the Plug! With a follow up of our in house “style” guru Ian Meiers. He professes to know more than Trinny and Susanne put together.

Have tailor will travel - Ian critiques the raiment of the average commuter

Have tailor will travel - Ian critiques the raiment of the average commuter

In the studio - mid plug!

In the studio - mid plug!

Joined at the Hipsters

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

  handhConjoined clothing – the art of dressing like your partner is everywhere this spring.  Nowhere has it been seen more clearly in the run up of the General Election with both the Camerons and the Browns going head to head (and hip to hip) in the aim to create a winning look.  (The Cleggs opted out – the fiercesome Mrs Clegg does not even do ironing let alone matching clothing.)

The message behind conjoined clothing is about putting on a united front and presenting yourselves as a team to the world – it’s the X and Y Factor.  It’s a tricky thing – get it wrong and you are more likely to look gruesome twosome rather than winning twinning so what’s the best way to go about it?

Remember Howard and Hilda from the TV series, Ever Decreasing Circles and those Noel Edmond’s Eighties jumpers?  It was a running gag that Howard and Hilda not only borrowed each other’s words but also each other’s wardrobe.

 In a similar vein, David and Victoria Beckham once sported his and hers biker suits that made them both look like a walking advert for Land of Leather.

article-1271658-096DD2B8000005DC-588_306x519 To get the look right, opt for a more formal and classic look.  Make sure the colours suit both of you.  Gordon and Sarah Brown nail it spot-on here.  Both opt to wear linen-look in a chocolate brown.  Sarah’s neat and elegant dress with its wide lapels echoes her husband’s jacket and the cardigan (although a tad mumsy) of lilac-grey softens the look and matches Gordon’s tie perfectly.  The necklace of quartz beads adds the right finishing touch and complements the blue of the ex-Prime Minister’s shirt.

 The Camerons, on the same trail, also hit the right note.  Samantha Cameron’s empire-line dress in dark wool works alongside David’s dark business suit and white shirt.  The message is of uniformity and brisk business is clearly on the agenda.  Only Sam’s pendant necklace and peep-toe shoes hint at a touch of individuality.

article-1269486-095A3C50000005DC-133_634x740

Now that the election is over we will probably see the end of this look.  Both sets of partners can return to their individual wardrobes with a collective sigh of relief.  Which is a bit of a shame since it certainly brings a new meaning to putting on your party dress…

This Months Special offer!

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

Spring, we are told is here and despite the frequent showers and chilling winds,it at least means its time to prepare for the summer or at least it tailoring terms. So with that in mind we are this month running a promotion on Dugdales’ super 110’s.

dugdale

The bunch is a comprehensive selection of elegant cloths combining classic background shades with more contemporary stripes and checks. These 9ozs/280gms cloth have a slightly “crushed” finish adding to the cloth “handle” and longevity. Several of the cloths have a fully milled finish giving extra warmth for those days when summer just doesn’t arrive!

So rather than the usual £650 for the machine stitched suit we will charge just £570

So Semi hand-stitched will be just £720 and the Full Monty Bespoke just £ 870. For the full bespoke you can even come into the workshop and help cut your own suit ( although that wont enable us to reduce the price !!!)