Bespoke Jackets – Fully Lined Vs Unlined

It’s a heated debate and with good reason. There are a few key points to consider when deciding on the internal finish of your bespoke jacket, amid many misconceptions about which option is best.

Firstly aesthetics. A fully lined jacket is – as the title suggests – completely covered internally with a lining.  Bespoke houses often use a material called Cupro to line their jackets – a cellulose fibre that breathes beautifully, is anti-static, has a luxurious handle and unlike silk (which you may be thinking is the better choice) is infinitely more durable, yet almost indistinguishable in every other way. 

An unlined bespoke jacket’s internal seams are edged with lining. They also have small sections of lining in the vent openings. This is often where our first misconception arises – less lining equals less material costs and less work, surely? In fact, material costs are almost the same and the work required is often greater. 

Binding the seam edges of an unlined bespoke jacket requires the patience and skill of an experienced tailor, cutting long enough strips of lining on the bias (diagonal). A large meterage of lining is required to get a diagonal strip long enough to enclose each seam’s raw edge. Then, of course, there is consideration of concealing the pockets – a fully lined jacket hides the construction of a pocket and pocket bag within it.

So, with all this extra skill and work resulting in a fantastically distinctive look, why wouldn’t you go for it?

There are a few reasons, the first being the ease of altering a fully lined jacket as the lining can simply be opened and closed, with any necessary adjustments made inside accordingly. Secondly, fully lined jackets tend to have more shape and increased durability. Thirdly, a fully lined jacket is going to keep you warmer, although that could be a negative if you tend to run hot or live in a warm climate!

Essentially, it comes down to a battle of heat, durability and style with whichever plays the most importance to the individual, winning the debate. Here at Cad & The Dandy we tend to focus on these three factors when making our lined vs unlined decisions, bearing in mind whichever you choose, the price point stays the same so cost is never a factor.

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