As Oliver Mumby, Cad & The Dandy’s head of design explains, the raglan sleeve is a creation of one Lord FitzRoy Somerset, a British Army officer and the 1st Baron Raglan. While commanding the British army in the Crimean War, Raglan was seen wearing coats whose sleeves extended all the way to the neckline in a single piece. In time, his titled name became associated with this distinctive feature. 

While Raglan’s effectiveness as a battlefield commander in that campaign is hotly debated—he did, after all, instigate the Charge of the Light Brigade with a bungled order—the martial merits of the sleeve that bears his name are well-recognized. 

“This design had practical advantages for military uniforms as it allowed for greater ease of movement, especially when the soldiers needed to raise their arms or perform various tasks,” says Mumby.

Considering the upgrade in movement and comfort that a raglan sleeve provides, it should be of little surprise that it found popularity in peacetime, too.

“Over time, the raglan sleeve made its way into civilian clothing, and it became a stylish and functional feature in various garments,” Mumby continues. “Nowadays the style is used in modern sporting and shooting garments as it gives added comfort and movement. The more comfortable and slightly oversized style allows the garment to be layered over tailoring and is often made as raincoats and other practical yet stylish items.”

But just because the raglan sleeve is widely considered to be easier wearing doesn’t mean it’s easy to produce. According to Mumby, cutting a raglan requires more expertise. “The shoulder style is often perceived to be a difficult one to cut,” he says. “It relies on great experience of the cutter, and a great base pattern.”

Fortunately for Cad & The Dandy, when it acquired the 302-year-old Stockholm tailor Götrich & Co. in 2018 it discovered the sartorial equivalent of a cheat code in its archives. “When we bought the Swedish tailors Götrich, we inherited their old blocks,” says Mumby. “Over the decades the raglan was known as their signature look and it’s great to be able to continue this tradition.”

Book your appointment today to discuss commissioning your very own raglan coat, made your your bespoke measurements and tastes. Appintments are available in London, New York, Stockholm, and at trunk shows around the world. 

The post Up in Arms: The Raglan Sleeve, by Eric Twardzik appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

In the mill’s own telling of the tale, in 1826 another Hawick weaver named William Watson & Sons dispatched a batch of fabric to a London merchant. The woolens had been labeled “tweels,” the equivalent of “twills” in the local Scotch dialect. However, the merchant misread the word as “tweeds,” which made a certain amount of sense. The robust wools would have been used for sporting clothes, such as those a gentleman would wear for fishing or hunting along the neighboring River Tweed. 

Rather than correcting the merchant, William Watson realized he had marketing gold on his hands, and embraced the mistake with gusto. While tweed is today woven across the world, Lovat stands apart as the sole weaver working in its birthplace. 

“As far as we are aware, there was never any formal business relationship between Lovat Mill and William Watson but, as close neighbors, combined with the various overlapping textile family shareholdings, it’s fair to surmise that the mills would have worked together as part of the then-sizeable Hawick weaving industry,” says Alan Cumming, who today serves as Lovat’s design director. 

“Now, as the only remaining Hawick weaving mill, still situated on Commercial Road within a stone’s throw from the original William Watson location, we are proud to be the torch bearer for the “Home of Tweed” legacy,” he continues. 

In keeping with its unique place in tweed history, Lovat continues to do things a bit differently. Rather than showing its collections at trade shows per the industry standard, Lovat works directly with clients to develop unique, made-to-order designs with a two-bolt minimum. It also provides exclusive tweeds to over 180 private estates and military regiments throughout the UK—and closely guards the specifics of their designs.  

However, one needn’t have a title or a military commission to enjoy Lovat tweeds. The mill has a permanent, stock-supported collection that is available from all the finest tailors (this includes Cad & The Dandy, naturally). It is spread across four books: The Ettrick, a true sporting tweed that weighs an astonishing 21oz and is made water-resistant by virtue of a Teflon finish; The Kirkton, a still hardy 16-ouncer that’s ideal for a true fall/winter sport jacket; The Teviot, which incorporates merino wool to lighten its weight to a more indoor heating-friendly 13/14oz; and finally, Heritage Coatings, which is the stuff that indestructible overcoats are made from.

And yet, a mill—even one based in Hawick—cannot live on tweeds alone. To that effect, Lovat also offers pure cashmeres and specialist suiting cloths including “The Bard,” a high-twist wool suiting intended for travel.

But chances are that if you find yourself looking through Lovat swatches, you’re in the market for a tweed—and searching in the exact right place. 

Discover the country tweed jacket, which is part of our current ready-to-wear collection, or book an appointment to discuss having a bespoke jacket made to your own measurements and specifications. Appointments are available in London, New York, Stockholm, and at trunk shows around the world. 

The post Cloth Spotlight: Lovat Mill, by Eric Twardzik appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

In days gone by, before fast fashion and online retail, this particular intimacy was something that many men would have experienced. An ongoing relationship with a tailor was simply how men bought their clothes. This has become more of a rarity today, with many men purchasing their garments via the click of the button.  

But what’s become lost in this march of progress is the opportunity for a man to consult an expert on their own wardrobe, much as one builds an understanding with their barber or their doctor over years of appointments. And aside from its tangible benefits, the client-tailor relationship also provides an escape from the everyday. 

“It’s almost like visiting a shrink—they’re coming to see us to feel better,” says Steve Knorsch, managing director of Cad & The Dandy New York. “It’s a whole experience the moment they set foot here, or in London. They forget what happened outside. They’re here to have a good time, to think about themselves, to work on their self-esteem.”

Just stepping into the clubby atmosphere of the tailor’s showroom, where you will be warmly welcomed and might even receive a reinvigorating drink, is enough to provide an escape from the everyday. But what happens next is of the most importance. A proper client-tailor relationship begins with a full accounting of the client’s wardrobe as it stands, and what he wishes to add to it. Additional discussion will factor in the demands of the client’s work environment, the climate where the clothes will be worn, and the client’s own stylistic preferences. 

And that’s just the first consultation. As the bespoke process can require up to three fittings for the first commission, the client will meet with the same tailor every step of the way. And just as each fitting will help to perfect the garment’s fit, it will also give the tailor additional insight into the client’s physicality, experience that they can parlay into future commissions. 

“If you have that relationship, and clients come back for the second, third and fourth pieces, it only gets better,” says Knorsch. “Because he now knows all of your body measurements—he may know your body almost better than you do.” 

But like all truly rewarding relationships, the one between client and tailor must be a two-way street. 

“You have to be able to get into the client’s world,” Knorsch says. “You have to be a really good listener and you have to be a little bit of a “man of the world”—to be able to talk about what’s going on, give recommendations for books and movies, bar and restaurant recommendations for when clients come to New York. It’s not some lonely little job up in an attic. You’re in it with both feet—otherwise you never get that relationship with that client.”

And much like the clothing that comes out of it, a good client-tailor relationship is one you’ll want to keep for years. 

To start your bespoke journey book an appointment with a member of our expert team in London, New York, Stockholm, or at one of our upcoming trunk shows around the world. 

The post The Client Tailor Relationship, by Eric Twardzik appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

With so many options, choosing your pocket style can be a daunting task when commissioning bespoke clothing. So, in the interest of minimising any potential pocket-related anxiety, we’ve drawn up an overview of the three most popular pocket styles and their variants.

FLAP POCKETS
The flapped pocket — where a pocket is cut into the interior of the garment and covered by a simple flap — is by far the most common pocket for both suits and jackets.

Straight, flapped pockets are often seen as the default setting for a jacket, also being the template for most ready-to-wear garments. Straight, flapped pockets are the best choice for when you’re not wishing to draw extra attention to a jacket, being well-suited for business wear.

Flapped pockets can also be set at an angle, being more commonly known as slanted pockets. The slant angle starts at a moderate 15% but can be increased to 20% – 25% for a more dramatic, right angle-like appearance.

Slanted pockets have an equestrian heritage, with their angled position making access easier when riding. Opting for slanted pockets can add further country appeal to a tweed jacket or make a worsted suit look sleeker by virtue of their dramatic angles.

Lastly, a smaller ticket pocket – so named because city businessmen taking the train to the country on weekends would use them to stash their train tickets – can be added above one of the flapped pockets. Typically set above the right pocket, they can be also set on the opposite side to accommodate the left handed. Either way, a ticket pocket can differentiate a jacket from a suit jacket or simply add extra interest to the latter.

When a jacket has slanted flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, it’s typically referred to as a Hacking Jacket. This pocket style has deep roots in English equestrian tradition, and instantly gives a suit or casual jacket a more rustic image.

JETTED POCKETS
Like flapped pockets, jetted pockets are cut into the interior of a jacket. However, they lack a flap, leaving only the appearance of a subtle slit on the body of the jacket. As with flapped pockets, jetted pockets can also be slanted and joined by a ticket pocket.

Being the most formal style of pocket, jetted pockets are a must on dinner jackets or smoking jackets. They’re less commonly seen on suit or casual jackets, in part because a well-made flapped pocket can be converted to a jetted pocket by simply tucking the flap into its interior. Cad & The Dandy’s flapped pockets are easily tucked, offering the versatility of a jetted look whenever the wearer should choose.

PATCH POCKETS
The last of the three major pocket styles, patch pockets are also the simplest. Rather than constructing a pocket inside the jacket, patch pockets are made by adding an extra patch of fabric to the jacket’s exterior, building the pocket on the outside.

In keeping with their simple construction – and larger visual presence — patch pockets are the most casual pocket style. This makes them a great choice for jackets and suits made from more casual fabrics, particularly lightweight linens and cottons.

Patch pockets can be left open at the top, or secured with a flap, creating what’s called a patch-flap pocket — a staple of American Ivy Style. Patch pockets can’t be slanted, but they can be curved with the top resembling the hull of a small boat – a classically Neapolitan approach.

The surface area of a patch pocket also allows for pleats. This could take the form of box pleats, created by layering additional fabric above the pocket, or an inverted pleat that creates a small opening on the pocket itself. Both add further interest to the patch pocket and can be topped by flaps.

The country cousin to the patch pocket is known as a cartridge or bellows pocket. Typically reserved for hunting jackets it is similar to the patch, being built up with extra fabric until it becomes a three-dimensional pouch capable of holding more items, which traditionally meant extra rounds of ammunition for your duck or pheasant hunt.

Whether you know your way around a rifle or not, a cartridge pocket can be a useful way to add more country appeal to a tweed jacket, or simply to carry a few tomatoes home from the local farmer’s market.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke jackets start at £1090, suits start at £1400. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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ABOUT YOU – STYLING

According to The Guardian the latest season of ‘You’ is ‘a guaranteed rollercoaster in a tweed jacket’. While the drama belongs to Netflix, the tweed (among other things) is Cad & The Dandy’s.

If you are unfamiliar with the series, ‘You’ is a psychological thriller starring Penn Badgely as Joe Goldberg whose obsessive tendencies often culminate in murder. In Season 4 Joe has relocated to London and is masquerading as Jonathan Moore; Professor of Literature and high society member. For Joe, a new identity comes with a new wardrobe and in Spring 2022 Cad & The Dandy were asked to create a more mature, refined, and English look for the character.

CREATING THE JOE LOOK – READY TO WEAR

The micro houndstooth jacket seen on campus throughout Season 4 was a perfect match for the character. The design is classically English style, made in a heritage Marling & Evans check fabric giving the appearance of tweed. In actuality the material is a mix of wool, silk, and linen that refines the jacket to a modern standard, perfect for the young academic Joe is pretending to be. Our Head of Ready to Wear paired the jacket with a cashmere sleeveless cardigan in navy and oatmeal to complete the look.

SHOP THE JACKET
VIEW KNITWEAR
EXPLORE THE FULL READY TO WEAR COLLECTION

CREATING THE JOE LOOK – BESPOKE

As events take a darker turn, so do the outfits. Cad & the Dandy created a bespoke charcoal grey safari jacket for Joe / Jonathan to wear among the Oxford elite. The soft shoulders and drawstring waist creates a more relaxed style than the blazer, elevated by using Drago Italian wool – a particularly soft but dense and hard wearing fabric. Perfect for Sundry House, the private member’s club Joe / Jonathan visits.

BROWSE READY TO WEAR JACKETS
BOOK A BESPOKE CONSULTATION

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Few things speak of luxury like a fine whisky. As with tailoring, quality whisky is driven by tradition, materials used, and skill employed in the making. It was therefore imperative that Cad & The Dandy whisky reflected the care and intent ingrained in our tailors. We partnered with former Caol Ila Distillery manager David Wood, who selected a rare and rich single cask, single malt whisky on our behalf. We have 24 signed and numbered bottles.

This is what makes Cad & the Dandy whisky so special:

Region – Highland. Distilled at Blair Athol, Pitlochry, Perthshire. Established in 1798, this distillery is steeped in history, even drawing water from an ancient source. The Allt Dour Burn flows into the grounds from the peaks of Ben Vrackie and contributes to the whisky’s mellow quality

Age – 12 years old
Cask Type – American oak
Strength – 55% ABV, natural cask strength
Look – Auburn, no artificial colouring. Clear with no chill filtration.
Aroma – Woody
Taste – Soft, vanilla, caramel
Finish – Smooth

Artistry – Original, bespoke label designed and painted by Dr Curly; a graphic artist who specialises in watercolour painting with toothbrushes. This technique is a modern take on a traditional style, producing a strikingly bold and textured image. Curly imbued his design with muted earthy colours that reflect not the style of the whisky and the Cad & the Dandy logo.

For more whisky details and enquiries email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk

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Florence has hosted this event since 1972, being conveniently held just prior to Milan’s fashion week, a trade-show for the world’s craftsmen and retailers to buy and sell their wares and for journalists to write about the latest trends.

Over the years Pitti was hijacked by the infamous Pitti Peacock, those loosely associated with the trade purely there to garner attention, wandering the streets of Firenze hunting photographers in the vain hope of being snapped through the Leica of those that hold sway in ‘Menswear’.

With the advent of Pitti 103 last week, we are pleased to report that the fair has been wrestled back by the sartorially elegant. With the rise of technology (yes something hard to imagine in the world of tailoring) it is now more a place to converse, debate and catch up with suppliers, friends, journalists and customers, as well as an opportunity to partake once more in the delights of Tuscan food and wine.

We decided rather than detail the latest trends in menswear – we can do this next time we see you in the shop – we would instead share our favourite places in the city to eat, drink and to meet our friends.

All’antico Vinaio
If ever a perfect sandwich was to be photographed, surely it would be here. The queues are testament to how a humble sandwich can be magnificent and so much more than we settle for in the UK. Oodles of options with fillings applied to look as good as they taste. It’s the perfect ‘grab and go’.

Pizza Gusto
Serving pizzas and nothing else, for when you perfect your art nothing else is needed. Also a great excuse to head south of the river for a slightly more relaxed atmosphere away from the tourist hoards.

Bulli and Balene
Hidden away in an innocuous square, this cicchetti spot serves quick and delicious snacks to eat standing or sitting. Matched with a small perfect cocktail or spritz, it’s an oasis of calm for pre dinner catch ups with friends.

Il Fratellini
A hole in the wall wine bar, served by well mannered and charming staff offering a great range of Chianti for pocket change. Returning time and again, not just for the wine but also conversations with those similarly seeking the bouquet of the grape. The sanctuary of an authentic Tuscan landmark.

Il Profeta
Our visits to Florence are never complete without seeing the husband and wife team who run this slightly out of the way restaurant. Never order from the menu, merely ask to receive what they would like to cook. With each course you are told of the maker of the oil, the origin of the squid or the vodka pasta sauce… you can’t fail to be charmed by meeting people who love what they do and are guaranteed to roll home in a state of contentment unmatched in every aspect. A reminder for us to share the love and passion we have for our own craft with our customers.

Some of our favourite Pitti people:

Photographers

Robert Spangle of 1000yardstyle
Mohan Singh
Arran cross
Luke Alland

Influencers

Andy of Styleafter50
Andreas of Flannels and Tweed
Matt Hranek of WM Brown magazine fame
Erik Mannby of Plaza Uomo magazine

Style Commentators

Simon Berg
Steve Knorsh

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In a bygone era, such a question may have determined whether you wished to light a Marlboro between your appetiser and entrée course. But in today’s tobacco-free world, its most relevant use may be differentiating between whether a formal garment is a smoking jacket or a genuine tuxedo (or dinner suit, as we know it in the UK).

To begin, we’ll state the most obvious difference: as the name would imply, a smoking jacket is a single item of clothing, while the tuxedo is generally a two-piece suit, consisting of a jacket and matching trousers. However, as we’ll discover the smoking jacket and tuxedo were once synonymous before going their own way.

As the eminent menswear writer G. Bruce Boyer recalls in his 2015 book True Style, the smoking jacket emerged in Britain in the 1870s as a hip-length coat men would don for cigar-smoking sessions following dinner, in order to spare their long tail coats from the noxious fumes (their lungs were not so lucky). The emphasis here being on “hip-length,” making smoking jackets considerably shorter than the jackets men wore as part of two-piece evening suits, at that time.

While some of these jackets were made from colourful velvets or silks, others were cut from the same black broadcloth typical of the Victorian age. They might have looked similar to the tuxedos worn today, but with one key difference — they were never to be worn outside of the home.

How and when the smoking jacket stepped out is a matter of debate, but the village of Tuxedo Park, New York, appears to have been its epicentre. While accounts differ, they all involve members of the Tuxedo Park Club attending a gathering in the UK where the Prince of Wales and other attendees sported short smoking jackets, inspiring the visiting Yanks to repeat the move at home, and in the process gave the garment its stateside name.

Further aided by the future King Edward VIII’s adoption of the style, the smoking jacket was soon triumphant on both sides of the Atlantic, replacing trouser and tails. In doing so, it was codified as a suit, made from matching fabric—typically wool or a wool-mohair blend, rendered in either black or midnight blue—becoming the tuxedo we recognise today. The uniformity of the two pieces that make the full garment was further expressed by its “facings,” the contrasting silk fabric that is seen on the peak or shawl lapels of the jackets or as a lengthwise stripe on the trousers.

The smoking jacket didn’t disappear but now stood apart as a single-piece garment that could be worn with contrasting trousers. In this way, it’s helpful to think that a tuxedo is a suit and a smoking jacket is a jacket.

And as such, you can have a bit more fun with a smoking jacket, with the opportunity to have it made in ivory silk for a tropical wedding, or in a bottle-green velvet for a holiday party. What’s worn below the smoking jacket is often a variation on tuxedo trousers, whether it’s the actual trousers borrowed from an existing tuxedo, or a pair of tartan wool trousers with a tuxedo-style silk stripe.

In closing, every man’s wardrobe should be stocked with a tuxedo, in the event of a late-breaking black-tie event or the sudden acquisition of opening-night opera tickets. The smoking jacket is not an essential—which is precisely why it can be so much fun.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke smoking jackets start at £1590; tuxedo/dinner suit jacket at £1290. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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In response to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, Indposhiv has created a War in Ukraine series of silk pocket squares. Featuring original and vibrant drawings from children affected by the conflict, as well as one illustration in muted colours with a final farewell theme, by the Odessa based artist Tina Tikhonenko.

SKY POCKET SQUARE
“>

PLANES POCKET SQUARE

THE PATHS WE DID NOT CHOOSE POCKET SQUARE

BEATING NOT BROKEN POCKET SQUARE

ONE DREAM FOR TWO POCKET SQUARE

All donations from the sales go to support Ukraine’s Armed Forces and humanitarian charities for Ukrainians affected by the conflict via the charitable foundation Come Back Alive . 

Kateryna Vozianova, the founder of Indposhiv, established her brand and atelier in 2009 at the same time Cad & The Dandy set up shop in London. Her brand has grown from strength to strength, establishing her business as a leader in luxury and bespoke clothing in Ukraine.

Seeing a great synergy and similarity with our story, we are immensely proud of our partnership with Indoshiv and we will be stocking the pocket squares in all of our stores, alongside the original prints, all available for sale.

Individual pocket squares cost £65, 100% of which goes to Charity.  
Shop War in Ukraine Pocket Squares

MORE ABOUT INDPOSHIV

Based in Kyiv, Ukrainian entrepreneur Kateryna Vozianova is the founder of two bespoke clothing brands Indposhiv and Heroism. Ukraine had very few mens ateliers before Kateryna entered the market in 2009, but none had focused solely on the culture and craft of bespoke, which became Kateryna’s goal.

Indposhiv started out tailoring suits for Kateryna’s husband and friends. Applying her many years of marketing expertise, gained from her earlier career at global brand Gillette, Indposhiv’s clientele steadily grew. 

Attracting a loyal following of high profile clients, all paid tribute to the quality and service provided by their tailoring workshop where they employ 70 tailors in the heart of Kyiv. Today, some of Indposhiv’s most prominent clients include Ukraine’s President, Mr Volodymyr Zelenskiy, Ukraine’s Prime Minister, Denys Shmygal, and Hollywood star, Jean-Claude Van Damme.

With the outbreak of Covid-19, in 2020, the challenge of maintaining production resulted in further expansion into the domestic market. Thus the bespoke brand Heroism was founded to provide outstanding women’s tailoring services in Ukraine, to match the men’s services available at Indposhiv. This launch resulted in 2 years of the most rapid growth in the group’s history.

In the 13 years since launching Indposhiv, Kateryna has become a well-known business woman in Ukraine, with a strong personal profile. She regularly shares her expertise at high profile business events, across inspirational YouTube channels and on a variety of podcasts. She is married with 2 young children and still lives in the centre of Kyiv with her two young children and her husband, an investment banker and military reservist awaiting call-up.

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“Cavalry twill, as the name suggests, was originally adopted by the mounted divisions of the British Army such as Household Guards and Cavalry as perfect riding attire,” says Rob Charnock, who serves as the chairman of the 124-year-old Yorkshire fabric mill Dugdale Bros. & Co, itself a prolific supplier of cavalry twill.

The term “twill” refers to a common weaving technique in which weft threads are passed over warp threads to produce a tightly woven series of diagonal, parallel ribs. It’s used in everything from denim to shirting, but cavalry twill is differentiated by its double-twill weave, which results in two parallel lines but more importantly gives the cloth improved structure and drape while preserving its matte finish.

“It is a warped face double-twill cloth which makes any wool version incredibly durable,” Charnock says of the weave’s woollen application. “Warped and woven in a dense ‘crammed’ construction of fine yarns makes it a very tightly woven cloth which is pretty impervious to the elements, with the same drape property as gabardine but without the shine.”

Indeed, cavalry twill is far from the only wool twill in the game, but its combination of lofty woollen yarn and tight, hard-wearing weave make it uniquely suited for wear with business-casual ensembles in the autumn and winter season.

“Cavalry twill is the king of twill cloths, sitting above serges, gabardine and standard twill in both elegance and performance,” attests Charnock.

Cavalry twill is available from multiple mills and represented in books like Holland & Sherry’s “Summer Variety” (for lightweight fabrics) and “Dakota” books, as well as the “Invincible” book of heavyweight wools by Dugdale. Unsurprisingly, Charnock has his own favourites, which aren’t confined to potential trouser picks.

From these particular swatches, Charnock recommends cloths INV023 to INV026 and INV034 to INV041 for general wear, while reserving cloths INV046 to INV053 for winter-weight trousers or even suits, with the impressive weight and handle of cloths INV054 to INV056 making ideal warming winter overcoats.

As a matter of military strategy, cavalry fell out of favour 100 years ago, but in the ongoing campaign for autumn and winter style, cavalry twill rides on.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke Dugdale cavalry twill trousers start at £430. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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