{"id":39676,"date":"2023-04-19T17:50:44","date_gmt":"2023-04-19T16:50:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/?p=39676"},"modified":"2023-04-19T17:50:44","modified_gmt":"2023-04-19T16:50:44","slug":"bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/","title":{"rendered":"Bespoke Engineering: Jacket Pockets"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>In terms of the features that shape the appearance of a suit or sport jacket, pockets are secondary only to fabric and lapel shape. But while the difference between a notched or peak lapel is exclusively aesthetic, the decision to add a ticket pocket or go flapped vs patch is also a matter of functionality. <\/p>\n<p>With so many options, choosing your pocket style can be a daunting task when commissioning bespoke clothing. So, in the interest of minimising any potential pocket-related anxiety, we\u2019ve drawn up an overview of the three most popular pocket styles and their variants.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/cadandthedandycom.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/28162125\/slant-flap-pocket.jpg\" alt=\"slant-flap-pocket\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21236\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>FLAP POCKETS<\/strong><br \/>\nThe flapped pocket \u2014 where a pocket is cut into the interior of the garment and covered by a simple flap \u2014 is by far the most common pocket for both suits and jackets. <\/p>\n<p>Straight, flapped pockets are often seen as the default setting for a jacket, also being the template for most ready-to-wear garments. Straight, flapped pockets are the best choice for when you\u2019re not wishing to draw extra attention to a jacket, being well-suited for business wear.  <\/p>\n<p>Flapped pockets can also be set at an angle, being more commonly known as slanted pockets. The slant angle starts at a moderate 15% but can be increased to 20% &#8211; 25% for a more dramatic, right angle-like appearance. <\/p>\n<p>Slanted pockets have an equestrian heritage, with their angled position making access easier when riding. Opting for slanted pockets can add further country appeal to a tweed jacket or make a worsted suit look sleeker by virtue of their dramatic angles. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/cadandthedandycom.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/28162542\/ticket-pocket.jpg\" alt=\"ticket-pocket\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21245\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Lastly, a smaller ticket pocket &#8211; so named because city businessmen taking the train to the country on weekends would use them to stash their train tickets &#8211; can be added above one of the flapped pockets. Typically set above the right pocket, they can be also set on the opposite side to accommodate the left handed. Either way, a ticket pocket can differentiate a jacket from a suit jacket or simply add extra interest to the latter.<\/p>\n<p>When a jacket has slanted flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, it\u2019s typically referred to as a Hacking Jacket.  This pocket style has deep roots in English equestrian tradition, and instantly gives a suit or casual jacket a more rustic image.  <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/cadandthedandycom.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/28162232\/jetted-pocket.jpg\" alt=\"jetted-pocket\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21238\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>JETTED POCKETS<\/strong><br \/>\nLike flapped pockets, jetted pockets are cut into the interior of a jacket. However, they lack a flap, leaving only the appearance of a subtle slit on the body of the jacket. As with flapped pockets, jetted pockets can also be slanted and joined by a ticket pocket.<\/p>\n<p>Being the most formal style of pocket, jetted pockets are a must on dinner jackets or smoking jackets. They\u2019re less commonly seen on suit or casual jackets, in part because a well-made flapped pocket can be converted to a jetted pocket by simply tucking the flap into its interior. Cad &#038; The Dandy\u2019s flapped pockets are easily tucked, offering the versatility of a jetted look whenever the wearer should choose.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/cadandthedandycom.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/28162318\/open-patch-pocket.jpg\" alt=\"open-patch-pocket\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21240\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>PATCH POCKETS<\/strong><br \/>\nThe last of the three major pocket styles, patch pockets are also the simplest. Rather than constructing a pocket inside the jacket, patch pockets are made by adding an extra patch of fabric to the jacket\u2019s exterior, building the pocket on the outside.<\/p>\n<p>In keeping with their simple construction &#8211; and larger visual presence \u2014 patch pockets are the most casual pocket style. This makes them a great choice for jackets and suits made from more casual fabrics, particularly lightweight linens and cottons.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/cadandthedandycom.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/28162456\/flap-patch-pocket.jpg\" alt=\"flap-patch-pocket\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21243\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Patch pockets can be left open at the top, or secured with a flap, creating what\u2019s called a patch-flap pocket \u2014 a staple of American Ivy Style. Patch pockets can\u2019t be slanted, but they can be curved with the top resembling the hull of a small boat &#8211; a classically Neapolitan approach. <\/p>\n<p>The surface area of a patch pocket also allows for pleats. This could take the form of box pleats, created by layering additional fabric above the pocket, or an inverted pleat that creates a small opening on the pocket itself. Both add further interest to the patch pocket and can be topped by flaps. <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/cadandthedandycom.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/03\/28162418\/bellows-pocket.jpg\" alt=\"bellows-pocket\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21242\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The country cousin to the patch pocket is known as a cartridge or bellows pocket. Typically reserved for hunting jackets it is similar to the patch, being built up with extra fabric until it becomes a three-dimensional pouch capable of holding more items, which traditionally meant extra rounds of ammunition for your duck or pheasant hunt. <\/p>\n<p>Whether you know your way around a rifle or not, a cartridge pocket can be a useful way to add more country appeal to a tweed jacket, or simply to carry a few tomatoes home from the local farmer\u2019s market.    <\/p>\n<p>Cad &#038; The Dandy bespoke jackets start at \u00a31090, suits start at \u00a31400. For more information, email <a href=\"mailto:savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk\">savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk<\/a>, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/book-an-appointment\/\">book a consultation online<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Written for Cad &#038; The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men\u2019s style. His work has featured on <a href=\"http:\/\/www.vice.com\">Vice.com<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/robbreport.com\">Robb Report<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.insidehook.com\/\">InsideHook<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ivy-style.com\/\">Ivy-Style.com<\/a>, among many others.<\/p>\n<p>MORE<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/02\/15\/you-season-4-costume-design\/\">\u2018You\u2019 Season 4 \u2013 Costume Design<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/01\/25\/cad-and-the-dandy-whisky\/\">Cad &#038; The Dandy Whisky<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/01\/20\/what-is-pitti-our-guide-to-florence-and-the-people-that-attend-p-u\/\">What is Pitti? \u2013 our Guide to Florence and the people that attend Pitti Uomo<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In terms of the features that shape the appearance of a suit or sport jacket, pockets are secondary only to fabric and lapel shape. But while the difference between a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":39684,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"content-type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[7,383,381,14,16],"tags":[2465,2466,2460,2461,2462,2463,2464],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Cad &amp; The Dandy - Bespoke Engineering: Jacket Pockets<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Read our simple guide to the most popular pocket choices, for both casual bespoke jackets and bespoke suits.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cad &amp; The Dandy - Bespoke Engineering: Jacket Pockets\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Read our simple guide to the most popular pocket choices, for both casual bespoke jackets and bespoke suits.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Cad &amp; The Dandy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/cadandthedandy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-04-19T16:50:44+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/cadandthedandy.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/06113346\/flap-patch-pocket-1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2048\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1152\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Chrissey Sullivan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@cadandthedandy\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@cadandthedandy\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Chrissey Sullivan\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Chrissey Sullivan\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/#\/schema\/person\/c2a602d5eabbcc593a8959862d4b8ab5\"},\"headline\":\"Bespoke Engineering: Jacket Pockets\",\"datePublished\":\"2023-04-19T16:50:44+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2023-04-19T16:50:44+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/\"},\"wordCount\":872,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/cadandthedandy.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/06113346\/flap-patch-pocket-1.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"bellows pockets\",\"jetted pockets\",\"bespoke pockets\",\"patch pockets\",\"ticket pockets\",\"slant pockets\",\"straight pockets\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Advice\",\"Bespoke Tailoring\",\"Casual Wear\",\"Our Suits\",\"Style Guide\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.cadandthedandy.co.uk\/2023\/04\/19\/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets\/\",\"name\":\"Cad &amp; 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