In days gone by, before fast fashion and online retail, this particular intimacy was something that many men would have experienced. An ongoing relationship with a tailor was simply how men bought their clothes. This has become more of a rarity today, with many men purchasing their garments via the click of the button.  

But what’s become lost in this march of progress is the opportunity for a man to consult an expert on their own wardrobe, much as one builds an understanding with their barber or their doctor over years of appointments. And aside from its tangible benefits, the client-tailor relationship also provides an escape from the everyday. 

“It’s almost like visiting a shrink—they’re coming to see us to feel better,” says Steve Knorsch, managing director of Cad & The Dandy New York. “It’s a whole experience the moment they set foot here, or in London. They forget what happened outside. They’re here to have a good time, to think about themselves, to work on their self-esteem.”

Just stepping into the clubby atmosphere of the tailor’s showroom, where you will be warmly welcomed and might even receive a reinvigorating drink, is enough to provide an escape from the everyday. But what happens next is of the most importance. A proper client-tailor relationship begins with a full accounting of the client’s wardrobe as it stands, and what he wishes to add to it. Additional discussion will factor in the demands of the client’s work environment, the climate where the clothes will be worn, and the client’s own stylistic preferences. 

And that’s just the first consultation. As the bespoke process can require up to three fittings for the first commission, the client will meet with the same tailor every step of the way. And just as each fitting will help to perfect the garment’s fit, it will also give the tailor additional insight into the client’s physicality, experience that they can parlay into future commissions. 

“If you have that relationship, and clients come back for the second, third and fourth pieces, it only gets better,” says Knorsch. “Because he now knows all of your body measurements—he may know your body almost better than you do.” 

But like all truly rewarding relationships, the one between client and tailor must be a two-way street. 

“You have to be able to get into the client’s world,” Knorsch says. “You have to be a really good listener and you have to be a little bit of a “man of the world”—to be able to talk about what’s going on, give recommendations for books and movies, bar and restaurant recommendations for when clients come to New York. It’s not some lonely little job up in an attic. You’re in it with both feet—otherwise you never get that relationship with that client.”

And much like the clothing that comes out of it, a good client-tailor relationship is one you’ll want to keep for years. 

To start your bespoke journey book an appointment with a member of our expert team in London, New York, Stockholm, or at one of our upcoming trunk shows around the world. 

The post The Client Tailor Relationship, by Eric Twardzik appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

With so many options, choosing your pocket style can be a daunting task when commissioning bespoke clothing. So, in the interest of minimising any potential pocket-related anxiety, we’ve drawn up an overview of the three most popular pocket styles and their variants.

FLAP POCKETS
The flapped pocket — where a pocket is cut into the interior of the garment and covered by a simple flap — is by far the most common pocket for both suits and jackets.

Straight, flapped pockets are often seen as the default setting for a jacket, also being the template for most ready-to-wear garments. Straight, flapped pockets are the best choice for when you’re not wishing to draw extra attention to a jacket, being well-suited for business wear.

Flapped pockets can also be set at an angle, being more commonly known as slanted pockets. The slant angle starts at a moderate 15% but can be increased to 20% – 25% for a more dramatic, right angle-like appearance.

Slanted pockets have an equestrian heritage, with their angled position making access easier when riding. Opting for slanted pockets can add further country appeal to a tweed jacket or make a worsted suit look sleeker by virtue of their dramatic angles.

Lastly, a smaller ticket pocket – so named because city businessmen taking the train to the country on weekends would use them to stash their train tickets – can be added above one of the flapped pockets. Typically set above the right pocket, they can be also set on the opposite side to accommodate the left handed. Either way, a ticket pocket can differentiate a jacket from a suit jacket or simply add extra interest to the latter.

When a jacket has slanted flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, it’s typically referred to as a Hacking Jacket. This pocket style has deep roots in English equestrian tradition, and instantly gives a suit or casual jacket a more rustic image.

JETTED POCKETS
Like flapped pockets, jetted pockets are cut into the interior of a jacket. However, they lack a flap, leaving only the appearance of a subtle slit on the body of the jacket. As with flapped pockets, jetted pockets can also be slanted and joined by a ticket pocket.

Being the most formal style of pocket, jetted pockets are a must on dinner jackets or smoking jackets. They’re less commonly seen on suit or casual jackets, in part because a well-made flapped pocket can be converted to a jetted pocket by simply tucking the flap into its interior. Cad & The Dandy’s flapped pockets are easily tucked, offering the versatility of a jetted look whenever the wearer should choose.

PATCH POCKETS
The last of the three major pocket styles, patch pockets are also the simplest. Rather than constructing a pocket inside the jacket, patch pockets are made by adding an extra patch of fabric to the jacket’s exterior, building the pocket on the outside.

In keeping with their simple construction – and larger visual presence — patch pockets are the most casual pocket style. This makes them a great choice for jackets and suits made from more casual fabrics, particularly lightweight linens and cottons.

Patch pockets can be left open at the top, or secured with a flap, creating what’s called a patch-flap pocket — a staple of American Ivy Style. Patch pockets can’t be slanted, but they can be curved with the top resembling the hull of a small boat – a classically Neapolitan approach.

The surface area of a patch pocket also allows for pleats. This could take the form of box pleats, created by layering additional fabric above the pocket, or an inverted pleat that creates a small opening on the pocket itself. Both add further interest to the patch pocket and can be topped by flaps.

The country cousin to the patch pocket is known as a cartridge or bellows pocket. Typically reserved for hunting jackets it is similar to the patch, being built up with extra fabric until it becomes a three-dimensional pouch capable of holding more items, which traditionally meant extra rounds of ammunition for your duck or pheasant hunt.

Whether you know your way around a rifle or not, a cartridge pocket can be a useful way to add more country appeal to a tweed jacket, or simply to carry a few tomatoes home from the local farmer’s market.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke jackets start at £1090, suits start at £1400. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

MORE
‘You’ Season 4 – Costume Design
Cad & The Dandy Whisky
What is Pitti? – our Guide to Florence and the people that attend Pitti Uomo

The post Bespoke Engineering: Jacket Pockets appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

ABOUT YOU – STYLING

According to The Guardian the latest season of ‘You’ is ‘a guaranteed rollercoaster in a tweed jacket’. While the drama belongs to Netflix, the tweed (among other things) is Cad & The Dandy’s.

If you are unfamiliar with the series, ‘You’ is a psychological thriller starring Penn Badgely as Joe Goldberg whose obsessive tendencies often culminate in murder. In Season 4 Joe has relocated to London and is masquerading as Jonathan Moore; Professor of Literature and high society member. For Joe, a new identity comes with a new wardrobe and in Spring 2022 Cad & The Dandy were asked to create a more mature, refined, and English look for the character.

CREATING THE JOE LOOK – READY TO WEAR

The micro houndstooth jacket seen on campus throughout Season 4 was a perfect match for the character. The design is classically English style, made in a heritage Marling & Evans check fabric giving the appearance of tweed. In actuality the material is a mix of wool, silk, and linen that refines the jacket to a modern standard, perfect for the young academic Joe is pretending to be. Our Head of Ready to Wear paired the jacket with a cashmere sleeveless cardigan in navy and oatmeal to complete the look.

SHOP THE JACKET
VIEW KNITWEAR
EXPLORE THE FULL READY TO WEAR COLLECTION

CREATING THE JOE LOOK – BESPOKE

As events take a darker turn, so do the outfits. Cad & the Dandy created a bespoke charcoal grey safari jacket for Joe / Jonathan to wear among the Oxford elite. The soft shoulders and drawstring waist creates a more relaxed style than the blazer, elevated by using Drago Italian wool – a particularly soft but dense and hard wearing fabric. Perfect for Sundry House, the private member’s club Joe / Jonathan visits.

BROWSE READY TO WEAR JACKETS
BOOK A BESPOKE CONSULTATION

MORE
Cad & The Dandy Whisky
What is Pitti? – our Guide to Florence and the people that attend Pitti Uomo
Smoking Jacket or Tuxedo? Discerning the Difference

The post ‘You’ Season 4 – Costume Design appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

Florence has hosted this event since 1972, being conveniently held just prior to Milan’s fashion week, a trade-show for the world’s craftsmen and retailers to buy and sell their wares and for journalists to write about the latest trends.

Over the years Pitti was hijacked by the infamous Pitti Peacock, those loosely associated with the trade purely there to garner attention, wandering the streets of Firenze hunting photographers in the vain hope of being snapped through the Leica of those that hold sway in ‘Menswear’.

With the advent of Pitti 103 last week, we are pleased to report that the fair has been wrestled back by the sartorially elegant. With the rise of technology (yes something hard to imagine in the world of tailoring) it is now more a place to converse, debate and catch up with suppliers, friends, journalists and customers, as well as an opportunity to partake once more in the delights of Tuscan food and wine.

We decided rather than detail the latest trends in menswear – we can do this next time we see you in the shop – we would instead share our favourite places in the city to eat, drink and to meet our friends.

All’antico Vinaio
If ever a perfect sandwich was to be photographed, surely it would be here. The queues are testament to how a humble sandwich can be magnificent and so much more than we settle for in the UK. Oodles of options with fillings applied to look as good as they taste. It’s the perfect ‘grab and go’.

Pizza Gusto
Serving pizzas and nothing else, for when you perfect your art nothing else is needed. Also a great excuse to head south of the river for a slightly more relaxed atmosphere away from the tourist hoards.

Bulli and Balene
Hidden away in an innocuous square, this cicchetti spot serves quick and delicious snacks to eat standing or sitting. Matched with a small perfect cocktail or spritz, it’s an oasis of calm for pre dinner catch ups with friends.

Il Fratellini
A hole in the wall wine bar, served by well mannered and charming staff offering a great range of Chianti for pocket change. Returning time and again, not just for the wine but also conversations with those similarly seeking the bouquet of the grape. The sanctuary of an authentic Tuscan landmark.

Il Profeta
Our visits to Florence are never complete without seeing the husband and wife team who run this slightly out of the way restaurant. Never order from the menu, merely ask to receive what they would like to cook. With each course you are told of the maker of the oil, the origin of the squid or the vodka pasta sauce… you can’t fail to be charmed by meeting people who love what they do and are guaranteed to roll home in a state of contentment unmatched in every aspect. A reminder for us to share the love and passion we have for our own craft with our customers.

Some of our favourite Pitti people:

Photographers

Robert Spangle of 1000yardstyle
Mohan Singh
Arran cross
Luke Alland

Influencers

Andy of Styleafter50
Andreas of Flannels and Tweed
Matt Hranek of WM Brown magazine fame
Erik Mannby of Plaza Uomo magazine

Style Commentators

Simon Berg
Steve Knorsh

MORE
Smoking Jacket or Tuxedo? Discerning the Difference
Pocket Squares for Ukraine
Here Comes the Cavalry: Charging Forward with Cavalry Twill

The post What is Pitti? – our Guide to Florence and the people that attend Pitti Uomo appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

In a bygone era, such a question may have determined whether you wished to light a Marlboro between your appetiser and entrée course. But in today’s tobacco-free world, its most relevant use may be differentiating between whether a formal garment is a smoking jacket or a genuine tuxedo (or dinner suit, as we know it in the UK).

To begin, we’ll state the most obvious difference: as the name would imply, a smoking jacket is a single item of clothing, while the tuxedo is generally a two-piece suit, consisting of a jacket and matching trousers. However, as we’ll discover the smoking jacket and tuxedo were once synonymous before going their own way.

As the eminent menswear writer G. Bruce Boyer recalls in his 2015 book True Style, the smoking jacket emerged in Britain in the 1870s as a hip-length coat men would don for cigar-smoking sessions following dinner, in order to spare their long tail coats from the noxious fumes (their lungs were not so lucky). The emphasis here being on “hip-length,” making smoking jackets considerably shorter than the jackets men wore as part of two-piece evening suits, at that time.

While some of these jackets were made from colourful velvets or silks, others were cut from the same black broadcloth typical of the Victorian age. They might have looked similar to the tuxedos worn today, but with one key difference — they were never to be worn outside of the home.

How and when the smoking jacket stepped out is a matter of debate, but the village of Tuxedo Park, New York, appears to have been its epicentre. While accounts differ, they all involve members of the Tuxedo Park Club attending a gathering in the UK where the Prince of Wales and other attendees sported short smoking jackets, inspiring the visiting Yanks to repeat the move at home, and in the process gave the garment its stateside name.

Further aided by the future King Edward VIII’s adoption of the style, the smoking jacket was soon triumphant on both sides of the Atlantic, replacing trouser and tails. In doing so, it was codified as a suit, made from matching fabric—typically wool or a wool-mohair blend, rendered in either black or midnight blue—becoming the tuxedo we recognise today. The uniformity of the two pieces that make the full garment was further expressed by its “facings,” the contrasting silk fabric that is seen on the peak or shawl lapels of the jackets or as a lengthwise stripe on the trousers.

The smoking jacket didn’t disappear but now stood apart as a single-piece garment that could be worn with contrasting trousers. In this way, it’s helpful to think that a tuxedo is a suit and a smoking jacket is a jacket.

And as such, you can have a bit more fun with a smoking jacket, with the opportunity to have it made in ivory silk for a tropical wedding, or in a bottle-green velvet for a holiday party. What’s worn below the smoking jacket is often a variation on tuxedo trousers, whether it’s the actual trousers borrowed from an existing tuxedo, or a pair of tartan wool trousers with a tuxedo-style silk stripe.

In closing, every man’s wardrobe should be stocked with a tuxedo, in the event of a late-breaking black-tie event or the sudden acquisition of opening-night opera tickets. The smoking jacket is not an essential—which is precisely why it can be so much fun.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke smoking jackets start at £1590; tuxedo/dinner suit jacket at £1290. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

MORE
Pocket Squares for Ukraine
Here Comes the Cavalry: Charging Forward with Cavalry Twill
Get in Line: Understanding Linings

The post Smoking Jacket or Tuxedo? Discerning the Difference appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

“Cavalry twill, as the name suggests, was originally adopted by the mounted divisions of the British Army such as Household Guards and Cavalry as perfect riding attire,” says Rob Charnock, who serves as the chairman of the 124-year-old Yorkshire fabric mill Dugdale Bros. & Co, itself a prolific supplier of cavalry twill.

The term “twill” refers to a common weaving technique in which weft threads are passed over warp threads to produce a tightly woven series of diagonal, parallel ribs. It’s used in everything from denim to shirting, but cavalry twill is differentiated by its double-twill weave, which results in two parallel lines but more importantly gives the cloth improved structure and drape while preserving its matte finish.

“It is a warped face double-twill cloth which makes any wool version incredibly durable,” Charnock says of the weave’s woollen application. “Warped and woven in a dense ‘crammed’ construction of fine yarns makes it a very tightly woven cloth which is pretty impervious to the elements, with the same drape property as gabardine but without the shine.”

Indeed, cavalry twill is far from the only wool twill in the game, but its combination of lofty woollen yarn and tight, hard-wearing weave make it uniquely suited for wear with business-casual ensembles in the autumn and winter season.

“Cavalry twill is the king of twill cloths, sitting above serges, gabardine and standard twill in both elegance and performance,” attests Charnock.

Cavalry twill is available from multiple mills and represented in books like Holland & Sherry’s “Summer Variety” (for lightweight fabrics) and “Dakota” books, as well as the “Invincible” book of heavyweight wools by Dugdale. Unsurprisingly, Charnock has his own favourites, which aren’t confined to potential trouser picks.

From these particular swatches, Charnock recommends cloths INV023 to INV026 and INV034 to INV041 for general wear, while reserving cloths INV046 to INV053 for winter-weight trousers or even suits, with the impressive weight and handle of cloths INV054 to INV056 making ideal warming winter overcoats.

As a matter of military strategy, cavalry fell out of favour 100 years ago, but in the ongoing campaign for autumn and winter style, cavalry twill rides on.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke Dugdale cavalry twill trousers start at £430. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

MORE
Get in Line: Understanding Linings
Escorial Wool – Rare Cloths of Royal Distinction
The Ledbury

The post Here Comes the Cavalry: Charging Forward with Cavalry Twill appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

Located in London’s Notting Hill, The Ledbury is one of the city’s destination eateries, founded in 2005 by Australian chef Brett Graham. Winning himself two Michelin stars and a serious foodie following, tables are in high demand, and best reserved a few months ahead.

With service being one of the things that sets The Ledbury apart, we were set the task of dressing staff to maintain a clean, crisp appearance through busy shifts, in varying temperatures, with spillages being par for the course. Mixing a muted and tonal visual approach with a durable and high performance fabric, we also wanted to complement the redesign of the space and the pace of restaurant life.

Each member of the team was measured individually for bespoke suits and shirts – a process that took 12 weeks, creating paper patterns for all. We developed a dark charcoal fresco suit, with a dark brown lining and brown horn buttons, paired with off-white cotton poplin shirts and dark green wool ties. All the colours were picked from the restaurant’s interior, inspired by the British countryside.

The fresco cloth, supplied by Huddersfield Fine Worsted, was chosen for its durability and anti-crease qualities, resulting in suits that looks as sharp at the end of a long shift as they did at the beginning, whilst regulating body temperature and surviving those inevitable occasional spills.

With all involved delighted at the end result, the entire collaborative process has been a truly successful meeting of minds, with joint values in craftsmanship and quality to the fore.

To speak to us about our bespoke corporate wear services, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk

MORE
Hop to It: The Airy Appeal of Hopsack
Bespoke Garment Wear & Care
Bespoke Engineering – Part I: Casual Shirt Collars


The post The Ledbury appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

Whatever the garment, all bespoke clothing is an investment, and as with any investment, should always be well looked after. Following these simple guidelines will not only preserve the shape and appearance of your garments but will also maximise their life span.



One of the big differences between bespoke clothing and ready-to-wear is that a bespoke garment’s shape will develop as it’s broken in. After the first few wears your garments will begin to settle. This is when you’ll get a much better feel for the fit. From here it’s important to maintain your garment’s shape and best upkeep via our recommendations below.

Dry Cleaning

Our advice is to do this as little as possible. Ideally, your bespoke garments should be dry cleaned no more than twice a year as the process uses chemicals that strip the natural oils found in the cloth. This damages the cloth and ultimately shortens the life of the garment. If the need for more cleaning were ever to arise, a good dry cleaner will be able to ‘spot clean’ any dirty areas.

It’s worth doing some research when selecting a dry cleaner, finding one accustomed to dealing with bespoke clothing. A good dry cleaner will bring out the shape in your garments rather than pressing them flat, as with ready to wear items. Regular pressing is fine and is considered best practice for the general care of bespoke suits and tailored garments.

Brushing

Your bespoke clothing should be regularly brushed, to ensure the cloth always looks its best. The process removes dirt, dust, and food particles. It also helps to redistribute the natural oils in the cloth fibres which will prolong the life of your bespoke clothing. We recommend lightly brushing after every wear, using a high quality, pure bristle brush – a selection of which are available to buy from our website.

Rotation

Another steadfast and fairly obvious rule in the bespoke garment wear and care armoury is rotation. Over wearing any garment is the best way to shorten its life. Resting and breathing in-between wear, as well as alternating with other clothing, will help to increase the life span of your bespoke wardrobe.

Storage

Use the best hangers you can afford. Wooden with rounded ends and a slight forward contour will help to keep shape in the shoulders of your jackets. A textured trouser crossbar will also prevent slippage to give the best hang for your trousers. Our beech wood garment hangers have been commissioned with bespoke clothing in mind. These can be bought via the website and in our London shops.

Another vital point – make sure you have enough space in your wardrobe, allowing your clothes to breathe. This also avoids creasing and stress to the garments, by too many garments being stuffed into a small space.

Sadly, moths are also an age old issue, as is the smell of mothballs! Our advice on this is to invest in a natural equivalent. Try introducing cedar wood or lavender to your wardrobe to keep them at bay.

Trouser Reforking

If you’re a heavy wearer of your trousers, be that suits or separates, often it’s the crotch that will be the first place to go. Should this happen, there is the option of inserting a replacement piece of cloth to ‘refork’ the trousers. A great way to extend the life of a trouser, this is a repair that can be repeated time and again.

Hopefully we’ve covered everything you need to know about caring for your bespoke clothing, but if you have any specific questions or require further advice, don’t hesitate to contact us directly.

MORE
Bespoke Engineering – Part I: Casual Shirt Collars
CAD x House of Negroni : The London House
Linen to be Lived In: The Joys of Irish Linen

The post Bespoke Garment Wear & Care appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

But you may have noticed that not all linen receives equal billing: Irish linen is held in high esteem, particularly for tailoring. To solve the question of why linen spun on the Emerald Isle should prove so enticing, we’ve picked the brain of Brad Herzlich, who serves as a Business Development Strategist for the renowned global fabric merchant Huddersfield Fine Worsteds.

“Irish linen is favoured as the premier linen for both shirting and tailored clothing,” Herzlich says. “Linen for tailored clothing is usually heavier, drier, and more structured than shirting linen, which is woven to be soft against the skin.”

As Herzlich explains, it’s no accident that Irish linen embodies these qualities.

“These attributes are considered at every step of the process: the selection of raw flax, the spinning of the yarn, the weaving of the cloth, and the finishing process,” he continues. “Traditionally, Irish linen is woven into full-bodied cloth from robust yarn, making it usually a bit heavier and with a firmer handle. The resulting density is loved by tailors, as it helps create garments that hold their shape and provide excellent drape.”

Ireland’s textile mills didn’t learn these lesson overnight. The island has a long history with cultivating, spinning, and weaving the flax-based fabric, dating back to the 11th century. But as Herzlich states, it wasn’t until the 1600s that the Irish linen industry really came into its own, thanks to the technological advances provided by French immigrants who brought industrial know-how and more advanced machinery with them.

By the 19th century Ireland had become the largest producer of linen in the world, with the majority of its mills located in Northern Ireland. But like many traditional industries, the Irish linen business was gutted by the emergence of the global marketplace and competition with cheaper labour.

Comparatively few commercial linen weavers remain in Ireland today, but those that do carry on the best of the industry’s traditions, often relying on heritage looms to produce their fabric. Irish flax cultivation has also grown scarce, with raw materials often imported from France, but spun and woven in the traditional Irish style.

Speaking of style, Herzlich also has thoughts on how the fabric may be best worn.

“Irish linen’s breathability and creasing make it best styled for nonchalant and casual seasonal wear. While the cloth may invoke imagery of suits worn in Havana or the Riviera, it is as appropriate in more relaxed safari jackets and overshirts.”

To be clear, Herzlich doesn’t rule out the suit, but feels that linen is best utilised in tailoring with a softer and more contemporary bent.

“Garments benefitting from the cloth’s full-bodied structure are less dependent on internal canvassing or padding, making it an ideal candidate for super soft, unstructured tailoring. For best results, give patch pockets a try, and don’t forget to leave the jacket unlined to make the most of Irish linen’s exceptional breathability.”

Words to live by, particularly when the mercury rises.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke linen two piece suits start at £2000, trousers from £860 and shirts from £230. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a bespoke consultation in London, New York, Stockholm, or at one of our regular US trunk shows.

Our full ready to wear collection, including linen shirts, trousers, jackets and suits can all be found on our website.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

MORE
Concours on Savile Row
Art at The Penthouse: Jean-Michel Basquiat by Richard Corman
Team Talk – Steve Knorsch

The post Linen to be Lived In: The Joys of Irish Linen appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

From now until the end of June, Cad & The Dandy’s New York Penthouse will be exhibiting portraits of Jean-Michel Basquiat, taken by Richard Corman in 1984. A prolific portrait photographer, Corman has captured subjects including Muhammad Ali, Ralph Lauren, Paul Newman, Madonna and Nelson Mandela in a career spanning four decades. His work has appeared in numerous publications including Vanity Fair, Vogue, Rolling Stone and Architectural Digest.

The exhibition, created in partnership with Manhattan restaurant and art gallery Frevo, depicts the late artist wearing an oversized herringbone jacket—a synergy between style, self-expression, and New York that we couldn’t resist. We sat down with Corman to discuss the shoot, working with Basquiat, and the power of clothing.

*This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

C&D: When and where were these photos taken?
RC: The shoot was in New York City, in 1984, at 57 Great Jones Street, a studio Andy Warhol had given to Jean-Michel, now a landmark building with a plaque detailing Basquiat’s time living there.

C&D: How did that herringbone jacket get involved?
RC: I shot it for L’Uomo Vogue, so style and fashion was a part of it. I was told to take the herringbone tweed jacket with me and to make sure he wore it. So, not only did he wear it, but he owned it. In the shoot, it became a part of him. You would never know that it was a prop, because it certainly never felt like a fashion shoot. It was a portrait of a complicated genius who was introverted, angry and extremely charismatic.

C&D: What was it like shooting Basquiat?
RC: When I walked into that studio the energy was so compelling. There must have been 30 young people there, smoking and drinking and painting with music permeating throughout the space. When I walked in, Jean-Michel was huddled in a corner in a very shy manner. I went up and introduced myself and asked if we could move to a quieter area, where I taped a sheet of grey seamless paper to the wall. I was intrigued to see what was behind his eyes. He was incredibly present for me and we were able to capture some iconic photographs.

C&D: I’m glad you brought the blazer up, because it feels like a remarkable part of the portraits.
RC: All the other clothes he wore were his, and when we put the blazer on it just seemed right! The reason I wanted to put these photographs in Cad & The Dandy’s new space is because I liked the vibe, but also because you guys are artists and artisans too, creating bespoke suits with the most beautiful fabrics in the world and, like me, are incredibly passionate about what you do.

C&D: Why do you think that blazer had such presence in the series?
RC: Because he just owned it for that hour or two, he put it on, and he was almost unaware that he had it on; it just became a part of him. It was also because he was so unique. You didn’t know if he was happy or sad or angry. He was introspective. It became kind of a shell, I almost felt it protected him.

He allowed himself to become so vulnerable in these photographs… There wasn’t a lot said during the shoot but there was a lot that I felt he was able to share with me in a very quiet, reflective manner.

C&D: What was the context of his career at the time?
RC: This was ’84, he died in 1988 when he was 28, so I’m assuming he’s 24. Warhol had been promoting him and engaging with him artistically, and I think on both a business and emotional level it was daunting for Jean-Michel. He certainly wasn’t selling paintings for 100 million dollars as he is today, but he was somebody to be reckoned with… There are a handful of people I’ve had the opportunity to photograph and spend a little bit of time with that you just knew were destined for greatness.

C&D: What makes the series relevant today?
RC: He was always relevant, but these portraits feel as if this is someone who could walk into a room emanating a very cool, artistic vibe. It’s exciting to have launched the book, “BASQUIAT – A Portrait” in 2018 and exciting to share this collection now with Cad & The Dandy.

C&D: How do you think the portraits factor into the space?
RC: I think these images really stand on their own. Savile Row tailoring is something you think of as being quite conservative, and yet I know that a lot of those artisans have designed classic menswear using the finest and at times the most outrageous fabrics! I think these photographs have a youthful, thoughtful edge which is relevant to Cad & The Dandy, and Jean-Michel, and hopefully to myself.

All prints are available to purchase. Prices and further details can be found via the catalogue below.
VIEW THE CATALOGUE

Book a bespoke consultation at our New York Penthouse.
Book a bespoke consultation at our London flagship store, on Savile Row.

An exhibition of over 200 of Jean-Michel Basquiat’s never-before-seen artworks, curated by his family, is currently showing in New York. Full details can be found here.

MORE
New Beginnings For Jeremy Haines: Spring
Team Talk: Steve Knorsch
Client Profile: Daniel Falcón

The post Art at The Penthouse: Jean-Michel Basquiat by Richard Corman appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.