ABOUT YOU – STYLING

According to The Guardian the latest season of ‘You’ is ‘a guaranteed rollercoaster in a tweed jacket’. While the drama belongs to Netflix, the tweed (among other things) is Cad & The Dandy’s.

If you are unfamiliar with the series, ‘You’ is a psychological thriller starring Penn Badgely as Joe Goldberg whose obsessive tendencies often culminate in murder. In Season 4 Joe has relocated to London and is masquerading as Jonathan Moore; Professor of Literature and high society member. For Joe, a new identity comes with a new wardrobe and in Spring 2022 Cad & The Dandy were asked to create a more mature, refined, and English look for the character.

CREATING THE JOE LOOK – READY TO WEAR

The micro houndstooth jacket seen on campus throughout Season 4 was a perfect match for the character. The design is classically English style, made in a heritage Marling & Evans check fabric giving the appearance of tweed. In actuality the material is a mix of wool, silk, and linen that refines the jacket to a modern standard, perfect for the young academic Joe is pretending to be. Our Head of Ready to Wear paired the jacket with a cashmere sleeveless cardigan in navy and oatmeal to complete the look.

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CREATING THE JOE LOOK – BESPOKE

As events take a darker turn, so do the outfits. Cad & the Dandy created a bespoke charcoal grey safari jacket for Joe / Jonathan to wear among the Oxford elite. The soft shoulders and drawstring waist creates a more relaxed style than the blazer, elevated by using Drago Italian wool – a particularly soft but dense and hard wearing fabric. Perfect for Sundry House, the private member’s club Joe / Jonathan visits.

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Small numbers of Escorial sheep are found today in Australian and New Zealand, with a history stretching back through centuries. In 1340 Spanish Royalty took possession of a unique flock, originating in the North African Mahgreb, to nurture on the Escorial plains north west of Madrid.

The sheep became known as The Royal Escorial Flock when, in the sixteenth century, King Phillip Il built the El Escorial palace overlooking the vast plains outside Madrid. Here, this unique breed were cared for and protected, their soft fleeces producing the most exquisite fabrics of the era.

The breed was almost lost during the Napoleonic wars, but for a Scottish woman, Eliza Furlonge who took 120 Escorial sheep to Australia. In 1987, forty lambs were taken to New Zealand’s South Island. It is in these two locations where the only direct descendants of the original Escorial flocks can be found today.

Distinctive to all other natural fibres, Escorial has a unique crimp within the heart of the fibre, performing as a naturally coiled spring. It’s this curly attribute that delivers fluidity in the Escorial fabric, creating lightweight garments of unique comfort and performance, with extraordinary drape and crease resistance. Escorial’s beautiful handle is often mistaken for that of cashmere and vicuna, attesting to its lasting, timeless luxury.

Not only one of the world’s rarest and most exclusive natural fibres, Escorial is also traceable to origin, environmentally sustainable and ecologically friendly.

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But you may have noticed that not all linen receives equal billing: Irish linen is held in high esteem, particularly for tailoring. To solve the question of why linen spun on the Emerald Isle should prove so enticing, we’ve picked the brain of Brad Herzlich, who serves as a Business Development Strategist for the renowned global fabric merchant Huddersfield Fine Worsteds.

“Irish linen is favoured as the premier linen for both shirting and tailored clothing,” Herzlich says. “Linen for tailored clothing is usually heavier, drier, and more structured than shirting linen, which is woven to be soft against the skin.”

As Herzlich explains, it’s no accident that Irish linen embodies these qualities.

“These attributes are considered at every step of the process: the selection of raw flax, the spinning of the yarn, the weaving of the cloth, and the finishing process,” he continues. “Traditionally, Irish linen is woven into full-bodied cloth from robust yarn, making it usually a bit heavier and with a firmer handle. The resulting density is loved by tailors, as it helps create garments that hold their shape and provide excellent drape.”

Ireland’s textile mills didn’t learn these lesson overnight. The island has a long history with cultivating, spinning, and weaving the flax-based fabric, dating back to the 11th century. But as Herzlich states, it wasn’t until the 1600s that the Irish linen industry really came into its own, thanks to the technological advances provided by French immigrants who brought industrial know-how and more advanced machinery with them.

By the 19th century Ireland had become the largest producer of linen in the world, with the majority of its mills located in Northern Ireland. But like many traditional industries, the Irish linen business was gutted by the emergence of the global marketplace and competition with cheaper labour.

Comparatively few commercial linen weavers remain in Ireland today, but those that do carry on the best of the industry’s traditions, often relying on heritage looms to produce their fabric. Irish flax cultivation has also grown scarce, with raw materials often imported from France, but spun and woven in the traditional Irish style.

Speaking of style, Herzlich also has thoughts on how the fabric may be best worn.

“Irish linen’s breathability and creasing make it best styled for nonchalant and casual seasonal wear. While the cloth may invoke imagery of suits worn in Havana or the Riviera, it is as appropriate in more relaxed safari jackets and overshirts.”

To be clear, Herzlich doesn’t rule out the suit, but feels that linen is best utilised in tailoring with a softer and more contemporary bent.

“Garments benefitting from the cloth’s full-bodied structure are less dependent on internal canvassing or padding, making it an ideal candidate for super soft, unstructured tailoring. For best results, give patch pockets a try, and don’t forget to leave the jacket unlined to make the most of Irish linen’s exceptional breathability.”

Words to live by, particularly when the mercury rises.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke linen two piece suits start at £2000, trousers from £860 and shirts from £230. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a bespoke consultation in London, New York, Stockholm, or at one of our regular US trunk shows.

Our full ready to wear collection, including linen shirts, trousers, jackets and suits can all be found on our website.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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But let’s start at the beginning. The first print reference to a “pea jacket” can be found in a 1720 edition of The Boston Gazette. The word’s etymology is not entirely clear, but there are two theories. The first holds that it’s a bastardisation of the Dutch pijjekker, itself a portmanteau combining pij (a type of rough blue cloth) and jekker (a short jacket).

The other theory, endorsed by the U.S. Navy, contends that its name comes down from the heavy topcoats made from coarse “pilot cloth” once worn by American sailors. With time, the name of this heavy-duty fabric was shortened to “p-cloth,” and the clothing made from it came to be called a “p-jacket.” We think you can fill in the rest.

Whatever its etymological origin, the peacoat as we know it today—with a shorter length, a double-breasted front and wide lapels—became a standard issue item in 20th century navies. Peacoats made from heavy blue wool with anchor-motif buttons were iconic to the U.S. Navy, while German U-Boat commanders sported black leather versions.

As was the case with all things army surplus, the peacoat found practical popularity among the American working class following WWII, and in time earned countercultural cachet. It featured in the 1973 film Serpico, in which Al Pacino plays a whistleblowing cop whose virtuosity is signalled by an unkempt beard, knit cap, and peacoat.

Today, Cad & The Dandy offers contemporary peacoats in both bespoke and off-the-peg outerwear options. Compared to those specimens worn through the Battle of The Atlantic, ours are rather more tailored in appearance featuring a stronger collar.

Both off-the-peg and bespoke retain the shorter length—ending somewhere between the middle and end of the seat —and features side entry pockets. Bespoke options include adjustable button cuffs, in keeping with the garment’s heritage or plain cuffs for a cleaner look. There’s also the choice of having six or eight buttons: the former looks more chief petty officer, while the latter might mark you as the captain.

But just as vital is the cloth that makes the coat. Peacoats were worn to block the North Atlantic’s arctic blast, a role they can also perform on city streets so long as the fabric is substantial enough. For that reason, we recommend wools that are at least 20 ounces but won’t dissuade clients from going all the way up to 30 (as a bonus, outerwear made from this fabric can last a lifetime).

While navy blue remains the tried-and-true, we’ve been impressed with bespoke clients choosing brown and green wools instead. No matter its colour, the peacoat’s styling marks it as a casual item: best layered over smart, tailored separates such as flannel trousers and a simple cashmere sweater or jeans and a chunky cable-knit turtleneck.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke Peacoats start at £1200. Our Ready to Wear Peacoat is £895, available to buy online and from our dedicated Ready to Wear shop, at 7/8 Savile Row, London. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call 9020 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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The post Chart a Course for the Peacoat appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

B: Let’s set the scene – we’re seated outside The Service, Savile Row’s favourite coffee shop, on a brisk, bright January afternoon. Talk me through what you’re wearing.

Harry: I’m almost head to toe in Cad & the Dandy Ready-to-Wear, shock horror! With the newly opened flagship Ready to Wear shop, at 7-8 Savile Row, I may have gotten a bit over excited… Mostly about this jacket – a silk, cotton, linen mix from Marling & Evans, in a classic tweed pattern.

This type of mixed cloth makes for the most versatile of tweed jackets, one we refer to as a 3 season jacket, ideal for wear in the UK, from spring through to autumn. I particularly love tweed and think a classic tweed pattern has its place in town, just as much as in the countryside.

For me, the best way to achieve a city tweed look is by pairing your jacket with a flannel trouser, modernised with a denim shirt, keeping things smart with a complementary tie. Remove the tie and pair with jeans for a more relaxed, off duty feel.

B: Do you tend to wear more separates?

Harry: I go for roughly half and half. The suit still has its place in formal business environments, but separates are great to break up the routine.

B: What got you into menswear?

Harry: My grandfather was a very stylish man. He had all his suits made at a tailor called Frank Hall of Market Harborough. He was a farmer and wore a shirt and tie every day and I always wanted to emulate that.

I started to collect vintage clothes when I was about 15, especially military dress, because of the quality and structure of the clothes. Then, when I moved to London, I got a part time job working in shirting. After that, I moved to a tweed specialist, which locked in my love of that cloth. Tweed is underrated. It’s completely and utterly the most versatile category / family of cloths. The everyman of wool cloth.

B: And now you’re a Tailoring Consultant on Savile Row. Is it as exciting as you thought it would be?

Harry: I wouldn’t describe it as ‘exciting’ but it is very rewarding. Savile Row has a hard earned and well deserved reputation for heritage, luxury and quality. London is the global capital of menswear and Savile Row is the epicentre of it all. It’s a little London village, where everyone knows everyone.

The most rewarding thing about this job, for me, is assisting customers to achieve their vision of themselves. For many, a bespoke suit is a once in a lifetime purchase. Helping to create something that is entirely unique to the individual is incredibly rewarding.

B: Do you think the pandemic has affected Savile Row’s bespoke houses more disproportionately than the Ready to Wear sector?

Harry: The fact that tailoring is a ‘hands on’ job has obviously made things more complicated on the bespoke side of things. Everyone has had to adapt and some of the tailoring houses have been better at that than others, pushing through to set a more modern tone for the street as a whole.

While online shopping worked in the favour of the Ready to Wear sector, I think there is also definitely a place for off the peg garments on Savile Row. That’s not to say this could ever replace bespoke tailoring, just that it’s entirely possible to make Ready to Wear to the same high standards of bespoke. Quality is key – if you sacrifice on the craftsmanship then you’re not adhering to the principles of Savile Row.

I think ultimately the pandemic gave Savile Row an opportunity to modernise, and whilst bespoke tailoring ultimately comes back to craft, quality and the heritage, with the right approach and outlook, the two sectors can evolve, hand in hand.

B: Who is your style icon?

Harry: Because I have curly hair and glasses, seeing Michael Caine in the original 1966 film, Alfie (and I guess Jude Law in the 2004 remake) definitely struck a chord. He wore his clothes effortlessly.

Hardy Amies once said that a well dressed man “chose his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgot all about them”… Your clothes are an extension of yourself, they are a second skin, a part of your persona. For example, for black tie, my grandfather never wore a dinner shirt. He’d wear a pale yellow shirt with a faint blue overcheck and he always looked smart and always stood out. It wasn’t any kind of protest or statement, it was just what he wanted to wear.

B: Do you think we still have tailoring rules?

Harry: Yes, and those rules are useful for beginners. But knowing the rules also allows you to break them. If you’re starting out and are not sure where to begin, the rules help avoid making obvious mistakes. However, it’s in the deliberate breaking of rules where true individual style comes out.

The rules that surround tailoring are to do with fit and apply to everyone. They’re not there to restrict you, they’re there to benefit you. For example, the reason for a half break in a trouser is that they lengthen the leg – this unbroken line all the way down the trouser crease only breaks where the trouser grazes the top of the shoe. A rule that exists to flatter the wearer. Other rules – like don’t mix patterns or no brown in town – are definitely outdated.

Cad & The Dandy’s approach to the rules – with the tradition of bespoke at its heart with an eye firmly on the future – is, for me, a true representation of modern ideas being brought onto Savile Row, which is what attracted me to the company.

B: What’s your advice to those who struggle to be inspired when dressing?

Harry: You’ve got to like what you’re wearing because if you don’t like it, you won’t look good. Within your budget, make sure your suit is properly adjusted. Make sure you ask your tailor for their opinion. Don’t be afraid to ask for guidance on colours to compliment your skin tone and styling details to enhance your silhouette.

Investment pieces are key, with cost per wear is also an important factor for some. A plain grey or navy suit will get lots of wear, as suits and separates, so represents a sensible and sustainable way of shopping. Pay more, buy less. You can only wear one suit, one shirt and one tie at a time.

B: What’s on your wish list?

Harry: A bespoke black suit, a true rarity on Savile Row. Very few people wear them, and most people associate them with the shiny, poorly made, Ready to Wear kind, worn by those in the service industry. I happen to think a bespoke black suit is unique – perfect for breaking up into separates.

I was told the other day ‘If you have a black suit, you’ll be the only man on Savile Row with one’ and I thought ‘Excellent! It’ll be a truly bespoke suit’. In terms of outerwear, it has to be the Greatcoat in Prussian Blue herringbone tweed. I also like our classic double breasted navy blue overcoat, but for me, the tweed has more character and individuality – I do love me some tweed.

Book a bespoke consultation with Harry at 13 Savile Row, or for assistance with our Ready to Wear collection, pop in and see him at 7-8 Savile Row.

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Black Tie Dress: The Experts’ Guide

The post TEAM TALK – HARRY HIGHTON appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

Many are chaffing at the bit to step out in some real finery again. And for men, Black Tie dress – the tuxedo, dinner jacket, or le smoking if you will – is both the easiest and most attractive outfit a man can wear. Its basic form has a stability and simplicity denied to almost every ensemble worn by men in the last two hundred years. But many are completely at sea about formal wear. It’s something of a, what’s the word I’m looking for, ah yes, paradox. It’s easy, but impossible if you don’t know what you’re doing.

The solution is to understand that the simplicity of the dinner suit exists precisely because there are rules of wear. Whilst rules aren’t much in fashion these days, they can often make things easier, and with the dinner suit an understanding of a few simple rules makes dressing for a formal event a breeze. Trust me on this, the dinner suit and its accessories, is a minimalist outfit which functions to make a man more dignified and handsome. Historically the outfit served merely as a foil to the more colourful dress of women, but I’ll leave the political correctness of that discussion for another time.

In the 21st Century prescription, tradition, and propriety may not be often used in daily vocabulary but formal dress shows them to still be useful. And the fact is there’s a growing longing for some order in our lives. Specifically in the past several years there have been numerous experiments with social choices in matters of dress: casual business, retro, alternative formal, creative black tie, dress optional, and proliferating designer “looks”. It’s something of an irony that men who are capable of running huge conglomerates have no idea what to wear on any particular occasion except going to bed. Don’t get me started.

So let’s get to the few basic rules that govern traditional black-tie dress, beginning with the coat. The coat should be styled for simplicity. The most useful cloth for a year-round formal evening suit is a plain-woven wool in either black or midnight blue (the darkest blue). Either single or double-breasted, the evening coat has a ventless back and simple slit side pockets without flaps. Minimalism is the goal, no patterned cloth, a restrained silhouette, without flaps, yokes, throat latches, ticket pockets or other details found on suits and jackets. Occasionally a man may prefer turn-back cuffs on the sleeves, which is considered a bit dandyish, but acceptable.

Lapels, both single and double-breasted, are shaped in either shawl or peaked fashion, never notched. They are covered (“faced” in tailor’s terms) with either smooth or ribbed (grosgrain) silk which is traditionally the same colour as the cloth they are covering, i.e., black or midnight blue.

That’s all there is to the basic dinner jacket. However, there are a few options worth mentioning for those who want to step beyond basic prescription. Velvet smoking jackets, more traditionally worn for at-home parties, are now considered acceptable for almost any formal occasion. Colours range from black and dark blue to bottle green, burgundy, brown, and almost any other colour. Daniel Craig wore pink to the opening of his latest James Bond film. Winter dinner jackets can also be worn in patterned wool challis or tartan. These alternatives are viewed as slightly more casual than basic black or midnight blue, thought of as “country club” dinner jackets.

Warm weather alternatives can be lighter weight fabrics such as silk, linen, high-twist woollens and gabardines, and blended fabrics in brighter colours or pastels, but the most traditional and sophisticated colour remains off-white or cream. A very Palm Beach look.

Formal dress trousers differ from day trousers in three basic ways. The most obvious is the stripe of silk (the same silk used for the coat facings) running down the leg outseam. Tradition calls for braces rather than belt, with pleats or plain front being a matter of preference. Evening trousers are never cuffed.

A variety of waistcoat designs can be found, but all are cut lower than a suit waistcoat with only three or four buttons, are often backless for comfort and usually made in the same cloth as coat and trousers. Embroidered or striped silk, tartan, paisley, or other fancy waistcoats are considered bold, which is not to say wrong.

Waistcoats are another matter of preference, with cummerbunds (from the Hindi word kamarband, meaning a waist sash) sometimes worn instead, in the same fabric as the lapel facings. A quick tip: cummerbunds have pleats open at the top, used to store theatre tickets, loose change, cigar cutters, and other small items that a gentleman wouldn’t carry in his trouser pockets. In the 19th century these trousers were without pockets so as not to spoil the trim line of the leg.

Accessories begin with the formal dress shirt, in either lightweight cotton, linen, or silk, either with a plain or pleated bosom (the larger the man the wider the pleats) and either a wing collar (collar points go behind the bow tie) or simple turn-down. Formal shirts are usually pure white but cream is another popular preference. Three or four buttonholes are traditional, to accompany dress studs which match the cuff links for the turn-back (French) cuffs. The stud-and cuff links set is the only prescribed ornamentation apart from a white chest-pocket handkerchief and flower (boutonniere) for the lapel.

The bow tie is usually of the same fabric as the facings and follows the same rule as for shirt pleats: the larger the man, the larger the tie. Dandies might opt for polka dots, pastels, or even sequins perhaps, but those choices go far beyond the bounds of tradition.

And lastly a word about shoes. Evening footwear is characterised by being lightweight, black, and usually low-cut. Socks are plain black cotton lisle, silk, or lightweight merino wool. Dancing has always been associated with evening entertainment, so footwear should be comfortable: plain black leather or patent leather oxfords, or opera pumps, or velvet slippers with monograms.

All of this is not to say how the clothes should be worn. Many wear their formal kit as though they were Prussian generals on the reviewing stand. So stiff, as we used to say in my old neighbourhood, they couldn’t swing if you hanged them. The trick to wearing any clothes is to wear them like you mean it, with simple, natural grace. Look at the old films of Fred Astaire, the man wore evening dress with effortless comfort, as though wearing pyjamas. That’s style, that’s the way to go.

Bespoke Dinner Suit from £1400 (2pc)
Bespoke Dinner Jacket from £1140
Bespoke Formal Trousers £310

Find out more about our bespoke Formalwear
Book a Formalwear Consultation

Written for Cad & The Dandy by G. Bruce Boyer, a renowned expert on menswear and men’s fashion. The former menswear editor for Town & Country, he has authored, coauthored and contributed to numerous books on style and his feature articles have appeared in Esquire, Forbes, The New York Times, The Rake and Sarto Magazine, among other national and international magazines. Mr. Boyer has also co-curated several fashion exhibitions at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. He lives in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.

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1. THE OVERCOAT, FROM £895

Taking inspiration from HRH Prince of Wales, as portrayed by Jack Farthing in Pablo Larraín’s Spencer (read our Spencer journal post for more), opt for a bespoke double breasted overcoat in a sturdy tweed to keep the cold at bay this winter. Cut by our very own Head Cutter, the double breasted tweed overcoat seen on screen is an almost exact replica of the overcoat worn by HRH Prince of Wales, since the 1980s. When designing yours, opt for some finer details: deep patch pockets and turned back cuffs for a coat with the Royal seal of approval.

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Explore Bespoke Overcoats

2. THE SHIRT, FROM £125

A soft, brushed cotton shirt is a no brainer at this time of year. A cosy seasonal favourite, our Ready to Wear version is crafted in luxurious brushed cotton twill with a supremely soft handle and smooth finish. Available in four colour ways – soft cream, petrol blue, sky blue herringbone and grey herringbone. Bespoke options are also available.

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Explore Bespoke Shirts

3. THE BESPOKE EXPERIENCE, FROM £150

Struggling to come up with a gift for that person who seems to have it all? A unique, bespoke tailoring experience is the answer. Simply choose the garment you’d like to gift – from bespoke overcoats, suits, tailored separates to bespoke shirts – and let the experience begin. All the receiver has to do is book their initial consultation and we’ll take care of the rest.

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4. WINTER WHITE CORDUROY

Our Ready to Wear corduroy trousers in winter white (£225) are a decadent take on a traditional style. Combining a flattering silhouette with the plushest corduroy, they’ll pair perfectly with knits for an overtly luxurious look. Top tip: No need to be precious – the more they’re worn, the better they look.

Pair with our take on the classic Safari Jacket in off white (£645). Cut in super soft corduroy, with 3% stretch, it has a luxuriously fine handle providing excellent comfort. Unlined and deconstructed, with four front buttons, an internal drawstring, four large patch pockets and tab cuffs, the jacket has been styled for an off-duty, relaxed look.

Shop Ready to Wear Trousers
Shop Ready to Wear Safari Jackets

5. BARON WEEKEND BAG, £420

Travel in style with Baron’s weekend bag in brown suede. The perfect companion for overnight stays or just heading to the gym. With approved carry-on luggage dimensions, it’s an ideal choice for the jet setter in your life.

Take me to the Bag
6. WALKING UMBRELLA, £75

An elegant, functional accessory, this is a must have for all seasons of British weather.

Shop Umbrellas

7. LAND ROVER POCKET SQUARE, £45

Motoring buffs and design devotees alike will love this silk pocket square. Featuring our Land Rover Defender 90, it’s an in-house limited edition design – a fun take on a classic menswear accessory, hand made in England.

Take me to the Pocket Square

8. SILK DRESS SCARF, £175

Adding a touch of elegance to any black tie ensemble, our silk dress scarves are now available in chocolate brown and deep navy.

Shop Dress Scarves

9. WOOL CASHMERE BASEBALL CAP, £195

A luxury take on the sportswear staple, our Wool Cashmere Baseball Cap makes the perfect gift for anyone looking to dress down their workday suits and separates, or dress up their off-duty athleisure wear.

Explore Caps

10. BRACES, FROM £75

With the season of dancing now fully upon us, a pair of Albert Thurston braces will keep you and your trousers looking sharp after a night on the dance-floor. Choose between Silk Moire and Boxcloth. Now available in a wider selection of colours.

Shop Braces

11. William Whiteley Professional Damascus Knife Set, £695

William Whiteley & Sons have been designing and manufacturing beautifully hand-crafted industrial scissors in Sheffield, the birthplace of British steel, since 1760. Their Chef’s Professional Damascus Knife Set comes complete with 6 knives and a handcrafted leather roll, bringing all of their expertise in steelwork to the kitchen. Ideal for anyone with big culinary ambitions.

Take me to the Knife Set

12. Daunt Book Subscription, from £180

For the bookworm in your life: over the course of a year, the subscriber receives a new title every month, according to their individual tastes; they are invited to tailor the service to their preferences, making it an ideal bespoke present.

Get the Subscription

13. Socks, £15

No Christmas Gift Guide would be complete without the foolproof gift of luxury socks. Ours are woven from the finest cotton, with a lightweight ribbed texture. Available in a range of vibrant shades, they’ll add a pop of colour to both daytime workwear and weekend casual ensembles.

Explore Socks

14. Christmas Coal, £12.95

Anyone with a sweet tooth is sure to appreciate this unique concoction of cinder toffee, dipped in smooth milk chocolate, covered in black lemon sherbet. With its deliciously distinctive flavour, you’d be hard pushed to find a more seasonal naughty but nice treat.

Take me to the Treats

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The post Christmas Gift Guide appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

Focused as we are on the finer aspects of daily dressing, top of our list is Pablo Larraín’s new Princess Diana biopic, Spencer, tipped to be one of the stand-out fashion films of the year.

And, while Oscar winner Jacqueline Durran’s costume designs tend towards the attention grabbing – with iconic pieces worn by by Kristen Stewart in the lead role of Princess Diana – it’s the period perfect, classically understated range of menswear that peaks our interest, not least because we had a hand in its making!

As seen on Spencer…

THE OVERCOAT

Played with aplomb by Jack Farthing, HRH Prince of Wales strikes a dashing figure on the big screen. Cut by our Head Cutter, the double breasted tweed overcoat pictured is an almost exact replica of the one worn by Prince Charles since the 1980s.

Having had a hand in cutting Charles’ original overcoats, making replicas of the originals proved just as satisfying, featuring finer styling details of deep patch pockets with distinctive half inch swelled edges, 2 1/2 inch turned back cuffs, and a rear back belt.

Finding cloths to match those that Prince Charles has specifically woven, was certainly a challenge. Delving into our tweed archives, we found a close match in the form of a light brown herringbone tweed from Lovatt Mill’s Kirkton bunch. As you can see, the 16oz cloth made up beautifully into an overcoat fit for a king.

THE NORFOLK JACKET

A Norfolk jacket is a loose, belted, single breasted tweed, jacket with box pleats on the back and front. It was originally designed as a shooting coat that did not bind or restrict the wearer when the elbow was raised to fire.

Pictured above, we crafted the Prince’s Norfolk Style Shooting Jacket in Spencer, in a Hartwist cloth from Harrison’s Porter and Harding bunch. It features the traditional Norfolk jacket style details with bellows pockets and stroller pockets.

THE TWEED SUIT

This classic tweed two piece suit, cut from a hefty 21oz Light Brown Tweed, from Lovatt Mill’s Ettrick bunch, gets the royal seal of approval. Heavier than most coating – even the sturdiest of contemporary outerwear is usually 16oz – the Ettrick sporting tweed is a favourite of dedicated field sports enthusiasts. The cloth is woven from the highest quality wool and features a showerproof Teflon finish to enhance performance.

Whether a two piece suit, gilet or overcoat, this is a cloth renowned for its tightly twisted yarns, with an ability to weather any storm, making it an ideal choice for country pursuits.

THE DINNER SUIT

The dinner suit, anecdotally first worn in 1865 by the then Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, is no longer exclusively for royalty. Pictured above is the dinner suit we made for Spencer’s HRH Prince of Wales character.

This single breasted, peak lapel dinner jacket (also known to our American friends as a tuxedo) is made up in a black wool barathea, with black silk grosgrain lapel, not dissimilar to the dinner jackets we craft by hand for our Ready to Wear collection. With classic, structured shoulders, pronounced waist and deep vent for an elegant silhouette, this is a dinner suit that’s royally approved, and universally flattering.

Found inspiration in our Spencer menswear? Book your bespoke consultation at one of our four global locations. You can also view our full Ready to Wear collection on the website.

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The post Spencer: Clothing Fit for a King appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

B: I like the ensemble, Oliver. Perfect for a crisp spring morning.

O: Thanks. It’s from our new Ready to Wear collection that we’ve been working on during the lockdown.

B: Ready to wear! Isn’t it a bit unusual for bespoke tailors to venture into ready to wear?

O: Cad is certainly the most progressive tailor on Savile Row, so expanding into ready to wear made sense, harnessing the experience we have from making more than fifty thousand bespoke suits to create something modern and complimentary to the bespoke business. In fact, going from bespoke to ready to wear is a more seamless transition than the reverse; we have a far better idea of fit and sizing than the average retailer.

B: Sounds like you have some experience in ready to wear. How did you get into tailoring?

O: I started out at a made to measure tailor on Savile Row, progressing to become their ready to wear designer. I spent the best part of seven years working alongside the company owner, designing retail and wholesale collections.

B: In your experience of interacting with Savile Row customers over the years, how have their needs evolved?

O: I’d say the biggest change has been a desire for the bespoke model to adapt to the online market. Over the lockdown especially, our customers have expressed a desire to experience Savile Row virtually. By being technologically savvy we have been able to commission bespoke for customers all over the world.

B: How have you met the demands of bespoke customers whilst also developing the Ready to Wear collection?

O: Bespoke tailoring is essentially very cyclical, with our busiest periods traditionally being January to March, so developing ready to wear for the best part of last year has kept our team of tailors busy during our quieter periods. Our workshop also compliments the nature of ready to wear collections; keeping them relevant and sustainable, with seasonal rather than annual releases.

B: Sounds great. What kind of garments can we expect to see?

O: The collection will focus on a softer, deconstructed aesthetic with a more contemporary approach responding to how men are dressing today. Use of exclusive cloths, with technical finishes and modern compositions, breathes fresh air into Savile Row as a whole, while retaining a bespoke level of superior craftsmanship.

B: When can we expect the first release?

O: The initial range of garments are already available to buy online and from our Savile Row store. With a brand new Savile Row ready to wear shop in the pipeline, we are very excited about the future. Follow ups to the collection will be announced as they arrive, via our newsletter, on Instagram and through the website.

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