Casual Wear - Cad & The Dandy https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/blog/casual-wear/ Bespoke Suits | Tailored Suits | Wedding Suits | Shirts Wed, 19 Apr 2023 16:50:44 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.4 Bespoke Engineering: Jacket Pockets https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2023/04/19/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2023/04/19/bespoke-engineering-jacket-pockets/#respond Wed, 19 Apr 2023 16:50:44 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=39676 In terms of the features that shape the appearance of a suit or sport jacket, pockets are secondary only to fabric and lapel shape. But while the difference between a […]

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In terms of the features that shape the appearance of a suit or sport jacket, pockets are secondary only to fabric and lapel shape. But while the difference between a notched or peak lapel is exclusively aesthetic, the decision to add a ticket pocket or go flapped vs patch is also a matter of functionality.

With so many options, choosing your pocket style can be a daunting task when commissioning bespoke clothing. So, in the interest of minimising any potential pocket-related anxiety, we’ve drawn up an overview of the three most popular pocket styles and their variants.

slant-flap-pocket

FLAP POCKETS
The flapped pocket — where a pocket is cut into the interior of the garment and covered by a simple flap — is by far the most common pocket for both suits and jackets.

Straight, flapped pockets are often seen as the default setting for a jacket, also being the template for most ready-to-wear garments. Straight, flapped pockets are the best choice for when you’re not wishing to draw extra attention to a jacket, being well-suited for business wear.

Flapped pockets can also be set at an angle, being more commonly known as slanted pockets. The slant angle starts at a moderate 15% but can be increased to 20% – 25% for a more dramatic, right angle-like appearance.

Slanted pockets have an equestrian heritage, with their angled position making access easier when riding. Opting for slanted pockets can add further country appeal to a tweed jacket or make a worsted suit look sleeker by virtue of their dramatic angles.

ticket-pocket

Lastly, a smaller ticket pocket – so named because city businessmen taking the train to the country on weekends would use them to stash their train tickets – can be added above one of the flapped pockets. Typically set above the right pocket, they can be also set on the opposite side to accommodate the left handed. Either way, a ticket pocket can differentiate a jacket from a suit jacket or simply add extra interest to the latter.

When a jacket has slanted flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, it’s typically referred to as a Hacking Jacket. This pocket style has deep roots in English equestrian tradition, and instantly gives a suit or casual jacket a more rustic image.

jetted-pocket

JETTED POCKETS
Like flapped pockets, jetted pockets are cut into the interior of a jacket. However, they lack a flap, leaving only the appearance of a subtle slit on the body of the jacket. As with flapped pockets, jetted pockets can also be slanted and joined by a ticket pocket.

Being the most formal style of pocket, jetted pockets are a must on dinner jackets or smoking jackets. They’re less commonly seen on suit or casual jackets, in part because a well-made flapped pocket can be converted to a jetted pocket by simply tucking the flap into its interior. Cad & The Dandy’s flapped pockets are easily tucked, offering the versatility of a jetted look whenever the wearer should choose.

open-patch-pocket

PATCH POCKETS
The last of the three major pocket styles, patch pockets are also the simplest. Rather than constructing a pocket inside the jacket, patch pockets are made by adding an extra patch of fabric to the jacket’s exterior, building the pocket on the outside.

In keeping with their simple construction – and larger visual presence — patch pockets are the most casual pocket style. This makes them a great choice for jackets and suits made from more casual fabrics, particularly lightweight linens and cottons.

flap-patch-pocket

Patch pockets can be left open at the top, or secured with a flap, creating what’s called a patch-flap pocket — a staple of American Ivy Style. Patch pockets can’t be slanted, but they can be curved with the top resembling the hull of a small boat – a classically Neapolitan approach.

The surface area of a patch pocket also allows for pleats. This could take the form of box pleats, created by layering additional fabric above the pocket, or an inverted pleat that creates a small opening on the pocket itself. Both add further interest to the patch pocket and can be topped by flaps.

bellows-pocket

The country cousin to the patch pocket is known as a cartridge or bellows pocket. Typically reserved for hunting jackets it is similar to the patch, being built up with extra fabric until it becomes a three-dimensional pouch capable of holding more items, which traditionally meant extra rounds of ammunition for your duck or pheasant hunt.

Whether you know your way around a rifle or not, a cartridge pocket can be a useful way to add more country appeal to a tweed jacket, or simply to carry a few tomatoes home from the local farmer’s market.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke jackets start at £1090, suits start at £1400. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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Hop to It: The Airy Appeal of Hopsack https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2022/08/16/hop-to-it-the-airy-appeal-of-hopsack/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2022/08/16/hop-to-it-the-airy-appeal-of-hopsack/#respond Tue, 16 Aug 2022 09:04:09 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=34804 As temperatures rise, those who aspire to dress well often look to linen. And while we don’t have a bad word to say about linen — we positively love Irish […]

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As temperatures rise, those who aspire to dress well often look to linen. And while we don’t have a bad word to say about linen — we positively love Irish linen— we realise that its guaranteed-to-wrinkle nature isn’t for everyone. In which case, we advise clients to look to the lesser known but equally effective counter to heat and humidity: hopsack weave.

the-airy-appeal-of-hopsack

We say “weave,” rather than “fabric,” because that’s precisely what hopsack is: a type of loosely woven, highly visible basket weave that was commonly used to make the hemp sacks English merchants once used to transport hops and other dry goods (hence, “hopsack”). The open weave promoting air circulation and ventilation being ideal for the purpose.

Different mills have varying interpretations of modern day hopsacks, but Holland & Sherry continues to be a top purveyor. Via its “Mesh & Hopsack Blazers” book, the mill offers a traditional hopsack in a 40% silk, 35% linen, and 25% worsted wool blend, as well as 100% worsted wool fabrics in an even more open “mesh” weave.

the-airy-appeal-of-hopsack

While either incarnations will perform admirably in warmer weather, the mesh is a true stand out in harsh temperatures, particularly if the blazer or jacket is unlined as this allows air to pass directly through the garment. To see just how open a mesh or hopsack weave is, hold it up to a light source and notice how easily the light passes through it.

the-airy-appeal-of-hopsack

Not limited to Holland & Sherry, another standout is the mock leno that appears in the “Fresco III” bunch from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds. Like the other fabrics in the book, the mock leno is a 100% high-twist wool that’s delightfully springy and resistant to wrinkles but possessed of a more open weave that increases breathability and makes it visually comparable to hopsack.

the-airy-appeal-of-hopsack

Before we depart, a small word of note. Hopsack and its similar weaves make for excellent four-season or summer-specific blazers and jackets, but are not so ideal for stand alone trousers. The open weave and raised texture can be vulnerable to chafing and snags, which isn’t such a problem up top but presents a more significant challenge below. In other words, you can have a pair of hopsack trousers made to form a suit or be worn as separates, however these should be only be worn very occasionally and with extra care.

Otherwise, simply pair your blazer or jacket with tailored tropical wool trousers, khaki chinos or even jeans, as its texture-rich weave presents another advantage: it can be worn just as easily with either formal or casual trousers.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke H&S mesh jackets start at £1700, H&S hopsack jacket start at £1700, HFW Fresco Mock Leno jacket start at £1460. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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Linen to be Lived In: The Joys of Irish Linen https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2022/06/19/linen-to-be-lived-in-the-joys-of-irish-linen/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2022/06/19/linen-to-be-lived-in-the-joys-of-irish-linen/#respond Sun, 19 Jun 2022 13:35:37 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=33896 As summer temperatures reach their peak, it’s inevitable that anyone with a penchant for tailoring might turn to linen for relief. The plant-based textile can be a life saver in […]

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As summer temperatures reach their peak, it’s inevitable that anyone with a penchant for tailoring might turn to linen for relief. The plant-based textile can be a life saver in the warmer months, as its natural properties make it lightweight, breathable and moisture-wicking, a natural performance fabric.

tailored-mens-clothing-irish-linen

But you may have noticed that not all linen receives equal billing: Irish linen is held in high esteem, particularly for tailoring. To solve the question of why linen spun on the Emerald Isle should prove so enticing, we’ve picked the brain of Brad Herzlich, who serves as a Business Development Strategist for the renowned global fabric merchant Huddersfield Fine Worsteds.

“Irish linen is favoured as the premier linen for both shirting and tailored clothing,” Herzlich says. “Linen for tailored clothing is usually heavier, drier, and more structured than shirting linen, which is woven to be soft against the skin.”

As Herzlich explains, it’s no accident that Irish linen embodies these qualities.

“These attributes are considered at every step of the process: the selection of raw flax, the spinning of the yarn, the weaving of the cloth, and the finishing process,” he continues. “Traditionally, Irish linen is woven into full-bodied cloth from robust yarn, making it usually a bit heavier and with a firmer handle. The resulting density is loved by tailors, as it helps create garments that hold their shape and provide excellent drape.”

tailored-linen-jacket-tobacco-brown

Ireland’s textile mills didn’t learn these lesson overnight. The island has a long history with cultivating, spinning, and weaving the flax-based fabric, dating back to the 11th century. But as Herzlich states, it wasn’t until the 1600s that the Irish linen industry really came into its own, thanks to the technological advances provided by French immigrants who brought industrial know-how and more advanced machinery with them.

By the 19th century Ireland had become the largest producer of linen in the world, with the majority of its mills located in Northern Ireland. But like many traditional industries, the Irish linen business was gutted by the emergence of the global marketplace and competition with cheaper labour.

Comparatively few commercial linen weavers remain in Ireland today, but those that do carry on the best of the industry’s traditions, often relying on heritage looms to produce their fabric. Irish flax cultivation has also grown scarce, with raw materials often imported from France, but spun and woven in the traditional Irish style.

irish-linen-tailored-clothing

Speaking of style, Herzlich also has thoughts on how the fabric may be best worn.

“Irish linen’s breathability and creasing make it best styled for nonchalant and casual seasonal wear. While the cloth may invoke imagery of suits worn in Havana or the Riviera, it is as appropriate in more relaxed safari jackets and overshirts.”

To be clear, Herzlich doesn’t rule out the suit, but feels that linen is best utilised in tailoring with a softer and more contemporary bent.

“Garments benefitting from the cloth’s full-bodied structure are less dependent on internal canvassing or padding, making it an ideal candidate for super soft, unstructured tailoring. For best results, give patch pockets a try, and don’t forget to leave the jacket unlined to make the most of Irish linen’s exceptional breathability.”

Words to live by, particularly when the mercury rises.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke linen two piece suits start at £2000, trousers from £860 and shirts from £230. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a bespoke consultation in London, New York, Stockholm, or at one of our regular US trunk shows.

Our full ready to wear collection, including linen shirts, trousers, jackets and suits can all be found on our website.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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Chart a Course for the Peacoat https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2022/02/01/chart-a-course-for-the-peacoat/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2022/02/01/chart-a-course-for-the-peacoat/#respond Tue, 01 Feb 2022 15:55:50 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=32377 Alongside the turtleneck, the deck jacket, and the double-breasted blazer, the peacoat belongs to that esteemed club of menswear classics first introduced as naval wear. But while others may forever […]

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Alongside the turtleneck, the deck jacket, and the double-breasted blazer, the peacoat belongs to that esteemed club of menswear classics first introduced as naval wear. But while others may forever carry a whiff of sea salt about them, the peacoat feels perfectly urbane: in recent years becoming something of a London uniform.

bespoke-navy-peacoat

But let’s start at the beginning. The first print reference to a “pea jacket” can be found in a 1720 edition of The Boston Gazette. The word’s etymology is not entirely clear, but there are two theories. The first holds that it’s a bastardisation of the Dutch pijjekker, itself a portmanteau combining pij (a type of rough blue cloth) and jekker (a short jacket).

The other theory, endorsed by the U.S. Navy, contends that its name comes down from the heavy topcoats made from coarse “pilot cloth” once worn by American sailors. With time, the name of this heavy-duty fabric was shortened to “p-cloth,” and the clothing made from it came to be called a “p-jacket.” We think you can fill in the rest.

ready-to-wear-navy-peacoat

Whatever its etymological origin, the peacoat as we know it today—with a shorter length, a double-breasted front and wide lapels—became a standard issue item in 20th century navies. Peacoats made from heavy blue wool with anchor-motif buttons were iconic to the U.S. Navy, while German U-Boat commanders sported black leather versions.

As was the case with all things army surplus, the peacoat found practical popularity among the American working class following WWII, and in time earned countercultural cachet. It featured in the 1973 film Serpico, in which Al Pacino plays a whistleblowing cop whose virtuosity is signalled by an unkempt beard, knit cap, and peacoat.

Today, Cad & The Dandy offers contemporary peacoats in both bespoke and off-the-peg outerwear options. Compared to those specimens worn through the Battle of The Atlantic, ours are rather more tailored in appearance featuring a stronger collar.

bespoke-navy-peacoat

Both off-the-peg and bespoke retain the shorter length—ending somewhere between the middle and end of the seat —and features side entry pockets. Bespoke options include adjustable button cuffs, in keeping with the garment’s heritage or plain cuffs for a cleaner look. There’s also the choice of having six or eight buttons: the former looks more chief petty officer, while the latter might mark you as the captain.

But just as vital is the cloth that makes the coat. Peacoats were worn to block the North Atlantic’s arctic blast, a role they can also perform on city streets so long as the fabric is substantial enough. For that reason, we recommend wools that are at least 20 ounces but won’t dissuade clients from going all the way up to 30 (as a bonus, outerwear made from this fabric can last a lifetime).

While navy blue remains the tried-and-true, we’ve been impressed with bespoke clients choosing brown and green wools instead. No matter its colour, the peacoat’s styling marks it as a casual item: best layered over smart, tailored separates such as flannel trousers and a simple cashmere sweater or jeans and a chunky cable-knit turtleneck.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke Peacoats start at £1200. Our Ready to Wear Peacoat is £895, available to buy online and from our dedicated Ready to Wear shop, at 7/8 Savile Row, London. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call 9020 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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Christmas Gift Guide https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/11/30/christmas-gift-guide/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/11/30/christmas-gift-guide/#respond Tue, 30 Nov 2021 17:46:31 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=31510 ’Tis the season of giving… and with the official Christmas countdown about to commence, allow us to present our ‘Top Picks’ Christmas Gift Guide. 1. THE OVERCOAT, FROM £895 Taking […]

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’Tis the season of giving… and with the official Christmas countdown about to commence, allow us to present our ‘Top Picks’ Christmas Gift Guide.

1. THE OVERCOAT, FROM £895

spencer-film-prince-charles-overcoat

Taking inspiration from HRH Prince of Wales, as portrayed by Jack Farthing in Pablo Larraín’s Spencer (read our Spencer journal post for more), opt for a bespoke double breasted overcoat in a sturdy tweed to keep the cold at bay this winter. Cut by our very own Head Cutter, the double breasted tweed overcoat seen on screen is an almost exact replica of the overcoat worn by HRH Prince of Wales, since the 1980s. When designing yours, opt for some finer details: deep patch pockets and turned back cuffs for a coat with the Royal seal of approval.

Explore Ready to Wear Overcoats
Explore Bespoke Overcoats

2. THE SHIRT, FROM £125

A soft, brushed cotton shirt is a no brainer at this time of year. A cosy seasonal favourite, our Ready to Wear version is crafted in luxurious brushed cotton twill with a supremely soft handle and smooth finish. Available in four colour ways – soft cream, petrol blue, sky blue herringbone and grey herringbone. Bespoke options are also available.

Explore Ready to Wear Shirts
Explore Bespoke Shirts

3. THE BESPOKE EXPERIENCE, FROM £150

Gift Voucher

Struggling to come up with a gift for that person who seems to have it all? A unique, bespoke tailoring experience is the answer. Simply choose the garment you’d like to gift – from bespoke overcoats, suits, tailored separates to bespoke shirts – and let the experience begin. All the receiver has to do is book their initial consultation and we’ll take care of the rest.

Explore Bespoke Vouchers

4. WINTER WHITE CORDUROY

Our Ready to Wear corduroy trousers in winter white (£225) are a decadent take on a traditional style. Combining a flattering silhouette with the plushest corduroy, they’ll pair perfectly with knits for an overtly luxurious look. Top tip: No need to be precious – the more they’re worn, the better they look.

Pair with our take on the classic Safari Jacket in off white (£645). Cut in super soft corduroy, with 3% stretch, it has a luxuriously fine handle providing excellent comfort. Unlined and deconstructed, with four front buttons, an internal drawstring, four large patch pockets and tab cuffs, the jacket has been styled for an off-duty, relaxed look.

Shop Ready to Wear Trousers
Shop Ready to Wear Safari Jackets

5. BARON WEEKEND BAG, £420

baron-weekend-bag

Travel in style with Baron’s weekend bag in brown suede. The perfect companion for overnight stays or just heading to the gym. With approved carry-on luggage dimensions, it’s an ideal choice for the jet setter in your life.

Take me to the Bag
6. WALKING UMBRELLA, £75

An elegant, functional accessory, this is a must have for all seasons of British weather.

Shop Umbrellas

7. LAND ROVER POCKET SQUARE, £45

blue-land-rover-pocket-square

Motoring buffs and design devotees alike will love this silk pocket square. Featuring our Land Rover Defender 90, it’s an in-house limited edition design – a fun take on a classic menswear accessory, hand made in England.

Take me to the Pocket Square

8. SILK DRESS SCARF, £175

silk-dress-scarves

Adding a touch of elegance to any black tie ensemble, our silk dress scarves are now available in chocolate brown and deep navy.

Shop Dress Scarves

9. WOOL CASHMERE BASEBALL CAP, £195

wool-cashmere-cap-crop

A luxury take on the sportswear staple, our Wool Cashmere Baseball Cap makes the perfect gift for anyone looking to dress down their workday suits and separates, or dress up their off-duty athleisure wear.

Explore Caps

10. BRACES, FROM £75

With the season of dancing now fully upon us, a pair of Albert Thurston braces will keep you and your trousers looking sharp after a night on the dance-floor. Choose between Silk Moire and Boxcloth. Now available in a wider selection of colours.

Shop Braces

11. William Whiteley Professional Damascus Knife Set, £695

william-whiteley-knife-set

William Whiteley & Sons have been designing and manufacturing beautifully hand-crafted industrial scissors in Sheffield, the birthplace of British steel, since 1760. Their Chef’s Professional Damascus Knife Set comes complete with 6 knives and a handcrafted leather roll, bringing all of their expertise in steelwork to the kitchen. Ideal for anyone with big culinary ambitions.

Take me to the Knife Set

12. Daunt Book Subscription, from £180

For the bookworm in your life: over the course of a year, the subscriber receives a new title every month, according to their individual tastes; they are invited to tailor the service to their preferences, making it an ideal bespoke present.

Get the Subscription

13. Socks, £15

No Christmas Gift Guide would be complete without the foolproof gift of luxury socks. Ours are woven from the finest cotton, with a lightweight ribbed texture. Available in a range of vibrant shades, they’ll add a pop of colour to both daytime workwear and weekend casual ensembles.

Explore Socks

14. Christmas Coal, £12.95

christmas-gift-guide-fortnums-coal

Anyone with a sweet tooth is sure to appreciate this unique concoction of cinder toffee, dipped in smooth milk chocolate, covered in black lemon sherbet. With its deliciously distinctive flavour, you’d be hard pushed to find a more seasonal naughty but nice treat.

Take me to the Treats

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Don’t Cut the Cord: The Case for Corduroy https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/11/05/dont-cut-the-cord-the-case-for-corduroy/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/11/05/dont-cut-the-cord-the-case-for-corduroy/#respond Fri, 05 Nov 2021 14:16:08 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=31153 Some fabrics, like a fine, worsted wool, effortlessly blend into the background by nature of their dry hand and uniform texture. Corduroy, it should be said, does the exact opposite—by […]

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Some fabrics, like a fine, worsted wool, effortlessly blend into the background by nature of their dry hand and uniform texture. Corduroy, it should be said, does the exact opposite—by design.

bespoke-corduroy-suit

This is thanks to the nominally cotton fabric’s raised ridges, which are also known as wales. Wales are introduced to the fabric via the weaving process, and as such can vary greatly in size.

Every corduroy fabric will have its own wale count, which is the number of wales per inch of fabric. As a general rule, the lower the number, the larger the wale; and the larger the wale, the more casual the finished article of clothing.

bespoke-corduroy-jackets

An 11-wale corduroy is sometimes considered “standard,” with enough wales per inch to make an impression at a distance. On the other end of the spectrum are fine needlecords, which can have as many as 16 wales per inch, and the rustic 8-wale corduroy, which makes a far greater visual impression and is most commonly seen in casual pants.

Corduroy originated as a “workingman’s fabric” in 18th century England (indeed, it is still commonly referred to as “Manchester” in Sweden). Those raised ridges gave it a heartier hand and appearance than the finer linen or broadcloth shirts worn by the gentry and helped give the fabric its name.

“Corduroy” is a portmanteau of “cord,” referring to the wales, and the antique English word “duroy,” which was the name of a coarse wool fabric. There is a charming story that makes the rounds each season about how the word corduroy is supposedly derived from the French corde du roi, meaning “the cord of the king,” but alas, this monarchial origin story is as false as a royal pretender.

bespoke-corduroy-suits

What isn’t fake is corduroy’s lasting appeal. Though originally intended as workwear, the fabric found a following among U.S. college students in the years after WWII. As J. Press scion Richard Press recounts in his book Threading the Needle, corduroy suits were being sold by the family business in the 1950s, even if old-guard employees derisively referred to them as “rags and bones for the scholarship boys.”

In time, those sour shop keeps would be proven wrong. The pivotal moment may have come with the release of The Graduate in 1967, which introduced the world to a young Dustin Hoffman clad in a corduroy jacket with patch-flap pockets. Corduroy’s transition from square to soul was complete by the 1970s, which saw the fabric employed in three-piece suits with flared bottoms and wide trousers.

We certainly aren’t asking you to repeat those ‘70s excesses, but they do get to the heart of corduroy’s appeal. As one of the most casual fabrics that can be made into suiting, corduroy signals that tailoring is being worn by choice, not demand. You might not want to wear it to court, but you may find it a delightful choice for a Sunday night dinner at the neighborhood bistro.

bespoke-corduroy-suit

There are also practical reasons to cherish corduroy, whether you’re having it made up as a jacket or a three-piece suit. Due to the raised ridges, it’s about as wrinkle-free as any fabric can get and can go for long periods without requiring a press.

And while those same ridges have cemented its reputation for durability, they’re subject to increased fading versus a flatly woven cotton fabric. However, we don’t view this as cause for alarm. After all, corduroy remains a fabric of the people, not the king, and its signs of wear should be displayed with pride.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke two-piece corduroy suits start at £1200. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call 020 7434 4344 or book a consultation.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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A Return to the Office, Part II: Back in Business Casual https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/10/06/a-return-to-the-office-part-ii-back-in-business-casual/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/10/06/a-return-to-the-office-part-ii-back-in-business-casual/#respond Wed, 06 Oct 2021 17:37:20 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=30720 In this second part of our series on return-to-office attire, we’re focusing on the workplace that doesn’t require a suit and tie. To read the first article in the series, […]

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In this second part of our series on return-to-office attire, we’re focusing on the workplace that doesn’t require a suit and tie. To read the first article in the series, click here.

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“Business casual” was a nebulous term even in the before-times, covering everything from a jacket and tie with trousers to a button-down shirt and chinos. Now that the phrase again has real-world applications, from office dress codes to cocktail parties, it’s worth considering what falls under the business casual umbrella.

Sitting atop the spectrum is the jacket. By virtue of it not being coupled to matching trousers, it’s also what you might call an “odd jacket” rather than a suit jacket. The level of a jacket’s formality can vary greatly, from worsted wool jackets with peak lapels and slanted flap pockets to spongey tweeds with open patch pockets.

As a general rule, the finer the fabric, the more formal it appears. A client meeting that doesn’t warrant a suit but requires looking smart is a fine opportunity for donning the hypothetical peak lapel jacket mentioned above, possibly with a spread collar dress shirt and a tie or pocket square. On the inverse, a fuzzy tweed might be paired with a button-down oxford shirt and cotton trousers and worn to a casual office where jackets may not be required but will still make an impression.

You don’t, however, want to wear an “orphaned suit jacket.” This phrase simply refers to the act of wearing a suit jacket with an odd pair of trousers; something that can be done with more tactile, casual fabrics such as seersucker or tweed, but creates a problem if the suit jacket is composed of a more finely woven fabric in a standard suiting colour like navy or grey. Though the casual observer might not be able to peg your jacket as being part of a suit, they will likely notice that it appears out of place without its lower half.

The solution, naturally, is to ensure you have a good jacket or two in your arsenal. The navy blazer—which thanks to its brass or horn buttons, will not be mistaken for an orphan—is a natural choice. We’re quite partial to navy blazers made from fresco, a four-season wool with a high-twist weave that allows the fabric to “spring back” after wear, tamping down wrinkles.

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Another way to identify your jacket as being such is to select a patterned fabric. You don’t need to go all-in on a tartan or wide scale herringbone but can make an impression with a subtle windowpane or shadow check. Depending on how smart or casual you wish the jacket to appear, you can opt for either slanted flap pockets or open patch pockets to differentiate it from most suit jackets, which feature straight flap pockets.

Now we get to the other half of the equation—trousers. If your workplace is a more casual setting in which no parties wear a jacket, the trousers become only more important, not less. You might select something simple and every day, such as a stone or khaki chino, but elevate it with details including single pleats, side tab closures rather than belt loops, and most of all, the spot-on fit that comes with a bespoke garment.

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And if you still want to add a “third piece” to your ensemble without overdressing for the work or social occasion, we recommend a safari jacket as an in-between. While allowing for a more complete and slightly dressier look, it’s plethora of pockets and alternative button stance keeps things grounded.

We’re aware, of course, that this article hasn’t defined “business casual” down to a science; and in truth, it’s much more of an art, dependent on such variables as company culture and climate. But we’re more than happy to listen to what your own work environment might entail and prescribe what we believe works best.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke jackets start at £940. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call 020 7434 4344 or book a consultation.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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A Return to the Office, Part I: Following Suit https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/08/31/a-return-to-the-office-part-i-following-suit/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2021/08/31/a-return-to-the-office-part-i-following-suit/#respond Tue, 31 Aug 2021 11:31:38 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=30409 After a long, strange year-and-a-half, many of us are preparing to return to our offices for the first time since March 2020. And while we can reasonably expect our desks […]

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After a long, strange year-and-a-half, many of us are preparing to return to our offices for the first time since March 2020. And while we can reasonably expect our desks to be right where we left them, a key concern is shrouded by uncertainty: what we’ll be wearing.

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Over the course of Covid-19, the professional male dress code experienced its greatest upheaval since the “Dress Down Friday” revolution that swept offices in the 1990’s. The long march to casualisation, which began decades ago by exchanging suit and tie for open-collared shirts and chinos, reached its apex as we attended endless Zoom meetings from our sofas in trackies and t-shirts.

In that moment, it felt as if the forces of comfort and convenience had at last triumphed over the two-piece suit, consigning it to the same ash heap of history where powdered wigs and frock coats lay, forgotten and unmourned.

However, it’s worth remembering that we didn’t discard our professional attire out of some organic sea change in the population’s thinking, but out of necessity following an unprecedented global pandemic. And now that the pandemic has begun to recede, we can take stock of how we felt about a year in hooded sweatshirts and elastic-waistband pants.

As the proprietors of a bespoke tailoring house on Savile Row, we’re a bit biased on the subject. But we think we speak for many when we say we’re ready to put the last 17 months behind us and get reacquainted with the suit as office life, social occasions, theatre and more come humming back to life.

If you work in one of the professions that still requires a suit and tie to be worn, such as banking or law, you might already be thinking of how to get back in the sartorial saddle. To which we reply: don’t sweat it. The true beauty of the suit is how little it changes over time. If you want proof, look at photos of the Duke of Windsor as a young man: the two-piece suits worn by the one-time king a century ago would scarcely look out of place today.

Which is to say, the suit that’s been hanging in the back of your closet since March 2020 hasn’t fallen out of style since its last wear. However, it might not fit you the way it once had, and you wouldn’t want your grand reunion with suiting to be marred by a fit that’s uncomfortably small or large. In that case, it’s an excellent opportunity to rebuild your wardrobe with one of the classics—say, a navy fresco or grey flannel.

Or perhaps your old kit fits you just fine (to which we say, bravo) but you’re enthusiastic about making a fresh impression when you’re again shaking hands or picking up the lunch tab. This is a chance to confidently stride back into suiting with something subtly patterned like a faint windowpane or pinstripe, or a solid with an interesting texture such as birdseye or nailhead.

And naturally, we’ll be the first to answer any of your questions about striding back into suiting, whether your wardrobe is going through a “rebuild” phase or if you’re looking to do something fresh and new when it comes to the work wardrobe. And next week, we’ll be taking a look at how those working in slightly more casual environs might strategise building out their back-to-office kit.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke two-piece suits start at £1200. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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Seersucker

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The Guardian – A Desire to Dress Up https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2020/11/25/the-guardian-desire-to-dress-up/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2020/11/25/the-guardian-desire-to-dress-up/#respond Wed, 25 Nov 2020 13:28:57 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=25423 After months of slobbing around at home in leisurewear, will a desire to dress up return to lift our collective spirits after lockdown? The Guardian’s Priya Elan talks to tailors […]

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After months of slobbing around at home in leisurewear, will a desire to dress up return to lift our collective spirits after lockdown? The Guardian’s Priya Elan talks to tailors on the Row to investigate the shift.

Read the full article here – https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/nov/25/sweatpants-out-savile-row-tailors-predict-end-lockdown-look-covid

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Gentleman’s Life – Bespoke Separates https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2020/11/04/gentlemans-life-bespoke-separates/ https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/2020/11/04/gentlemans-life-bespoke-separates/#respond Wed, 04 Nov 2020 13:06:43 +0000 https://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/?p=25414 The autumn edition of Gentleman’s Life, features this Tailored for Life photoshoot, shining a spotlight on bespoke separates from a handful of the Row’s top tailors. MORETeam Talk – James […]

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The autumn edition of Gentleman’s Life, features this Tailored for Life photoshoot, shining a spotlight on bespoke separates from a handful of the Row’s top tailors.

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