With so many options, choosing your pocket style can be a daunting task when commissioning bespoke clothing. So, in the interest of minimising any potential pocket-related anxiety, we’ve drawn up an overview of the three most popular pocket styles and their variants.

FLAP POCKETS
The flapped pocket — where a pocket is cut into the interior of the garment and covered by a simple flap — is by far the most common pocket for both suits and jackets.

Straight, flapped pockets are often seen as the default setting for a jacket, also being the template for most ready-to-wear garments. Straight, flapped pockets are the best choice for when you’re not wishing to draw extra attention to a jacket, being well-suited for business wear.

Flapped pockets can also be set at an angle, being more commonly known as slanted pockets. The slant angle starts at a moderate 15% but can be increased to 20% – 25% for a more dramatic, right angle-like appearance.

Slanted pockets have an equestrian heritage, with their angled position making access easier when riding. Opting for slanted pockets can add further country appeal to a tweed jacket or make a worsted suit look sleeker by virtue of their dramatic angles.

Lastly, a smaller ticket pocket – so named because city businessmen taking the train to the country on weekends would use them to stash their train tickets – can be added above one of the flapped pockets. Typically set above the right pocket, they can be also set on the opposite side to accommodate the left handed. Either way, a ticket pocket can differentiate a jacket from a suit jacket or simply add extra interest to the latter.

When a jacket has slanted flapped pockets with a ticket pocket, it’s typically referred to as a Hacking Jacket. This pocket style has deep roots in English equestrian tradition, and instantly gives a suit or casual jacket a more rustic image.

JETTED POCKETS
Like flapped pockets, jetted pockets are cut into the interior of a jacket. However, they lack a flap, leaving only the appearance of a subtle slit on the body of the jacket. As with flapped pockets, jetted pockets can also be slanted and joined by a ticket pocket.

Being the most formal style of pocket, jetted pockets are a must on dinner jackets or smoking jackets. They’re less commonly seen on suit or casual jackets, in part because a well-made flapped pocket can be converted to a jetted pocket by simply tucking the flap into its interior. Cad & The Dandy’s flapped pockets are easily tucked, offering the versatility of a jetted look whenever the wearer should choose.

PATCH POCKETS
The last of the three major pocket styles, patch pockets are also the simplest. Rather than constructing a pocket inside the jacket, patch pockets are made by adding an extra patch of fabric to the jacket’s exterior, building the pocket on the outside.

In keeping with their simple construction – and larger visual presence — patch pockets are the most casual pocket style. This makes them a great choice for jackets and suits made from more casual fabrics, particularly lightweight linens and cottons.

Patch pockets can be left open at the top, or secured with a flap, creating what’s called a patch-flap pocket — a staple of American Ivy Style. Patch pockets can’t be slanted, but they can be curved with the top resembling the hull of a small boat – a classically Neapolitan approach.

The surface area of a patch pocket also allows for pleats. This could take the form of box pleats, created by layering additional fabric above the pocket, or an inverted pleat that creates a small opening on the pocket itself. Both add further interest to the patch pocket and can be topped by flaps.

The country cousin to the patch pocket is known as a cartridge or bellows pocket. Typically reserved for hunting jackets it is similar to the patch, being built up with extra fabric until it becomes a three-dimensional pouch capable of holding more items, which traditionally meant extra rounds of ammunition for your duck or pheasant hunt.

Whether you know your way around a rifle or not, a cartridge pocket can be a useful way to add more country appeal to a tweed jacket, or simply to carry a few tomatoes home from the local farmer’s market.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke jackets start at £1090, suits start at £1400. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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“Cavalry twill, as the name suggests, was originally adopted by the mounted divisions of the British Army such as Household Guards and Cavalry as perfect riding attire,” says Rob Charnock, who serves as the chairman of the 124-year-old Yorkshire fabric mill Dugdale Bros. & Co, itself a prolific supplier of cavalry twill.

The term “twill” refers to a common weaving technique in which weft threads are passed over warp threads to produce a tightly woven series of diagonal, parallel ribs. It’s used in everything from denim to shirting, but cavalry twill is differentiated by its double-twill weave, which results in two parallel lines but more importantly gives the cloth improved structure and drape while preserving its matte finish.

“It is a warped face double-twill cloth which makes any wool version incredibly durable,” Charnock says of the weave’s woollen application. “Warped and woven in a dense ‘crammed’ construction of fine yarns makes it a very tightly woven cloth which is pretty impervious to the elements, with the same drape property as gabardine but without the shine.”

Indeed, cavalry twill is far from the only wool twill in the game, but its combination of lofty woollen yarn and tight, hard-wearing weave make it uniquely suited for wear with business-casual ensembles in the autumn and winter season.

“Cavalry twill is the king of twill cloths, sitting above serges, gabardine and standard twill in both elegance and performance,” attests Charnock.

Cavalry twill is available from multiple mills and represented in books like Holland & Sherry’s “Summer Variety” (for lightweight fabrics) and “Dakota” books, as well as the “Invincible” book of heavyweight wools by Dugdale. Unsurprisingly, Charnock has his own favourites, which aren’t confined to potential trouser picks.

From these particular swatches, Charnock recommends cloths INV023 to INV026 and INV034 to INV041 for general wear, while reserving cloths INV046 to INV053 for winter-weight trousers or even suits, with the impressive weight and handle of cloths INV054 to INV056 making ideal warming winter overcoats.

As a matter of military strategy, cavalry fell out of favour 100 years ago, but in the ongoing campaign for autumn and winter style, cavalry twill rides on.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke Dugdale cavalry twill trousers start at £430. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation online.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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Put simply, “lining” refers to the fabric that’s been sewn onto the inside of a jacket (or the upper portion of a pair of trousers). Jackets may be lined or unlined (or something in between—more on that later) with a variety of fabrics ranging from polyester to pure silk.

To better explore the topic, we enlisted the aid of our old friend Brad Herzlich, who serves as Business Development Strategist for the international fabric merchant Gladson.

“One of things that linings do both for trousers and for jackets is to provide ease of wear,” says Herzlich of its practical applications. “It prevents the fabric from catching on your body or your shirt—that’s the traditional reason linings were used.”

Gladson utilises three types of fabric for its custom linings: viscose, cupro and silk. Viscose is a woven textile that is made from naturally occurring fibres—in most cases, wood pulp, tree bark or bamboo. Although its light weight and slippery hand is similar to polyester, it is far more breathable.

Cupro is a kind of cousin to viscose, which differs in that is derived from a byproduct of the cotton plant. This gives it a softer hand that is comparable to silk yet much stronger, which has made it a favourite linings choice among tailors.

Silk, which was once commonly used to line jackets, was large supplanted by viscose and cupro and is today reserved as a luxury. Gladson continues to offer 100% silk linings exclusively by custom commission. Interested clients can commission printed silk linings, working with Gladson’s design team to develop individual orders. This brings us to another application for linings—a subtle way for the wearer to express their personal style in even the most buttoned-up environments.

“One of the things that’s recently become more prevalent is the use of jacket linings as an expression of individuality or flair,” Herzlich says. “Professional clients tend to be quite corporate and reserved on the exterior of their garments. The choice of lining is where their personality can shine through whether it’s racing cars or football or whatever it is that makes that garment feel special for them. Linings give clients the opportunity to have a bit of fun.”

To that effect, books like Gladson’s Flash! series offer a kaleidoscopic array of designs and motifs running from large-scale paisleys or polka dots to world maps or vintage advertisements, typically in a high-quality viscose, owing to the fabric’s durability and structure.

There is another way that linings play a practical purpose, functioning as light insulation. While silk will prove the most insulating, any fully lined jacket will better retain body heat. Entirely dependent on climate, linings as insulation are not always desirable which is why unlined jackets are also an option.

In our case, “unlined” means that a jacket is free from lining everywhere but the sleeves and shoulder blades. This feature is typically chosen for jackets made from linen or another lightweight fabric that will be intended for summertime wear (alternatively, a tweed jacket might also be unlined to prevent overheating beneath the heavy fabric).

Those on the fence of fully lined or unlined can instead opt for a half-lining. In this case the sleeves, shoulders, and sides of a jacket are lined, leaving the back unlined. This may seem like a minor variation but as it allows air to circulate freely through the back of the jacket, anyone who’s ever worn a tailored jacket to an August wedding can attest, this slight change can make for a world of difference.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke two-piece suits start at £1400, jackets from £1090. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call 020 7434 4344 or book a bespoke consultation in London, New York or Stockholm, or at one of our regular US trunk shows.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has featured on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook and Ivy-Style.com, among many others.

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Whatever the garment, all bespoke clothing is an investment, and as with any investment, should always be well looked after. Following these simple guidelines will not only preserve the shape and appearance of your garments but will also maximise their life span.



One of the big differences between bespoke clothing and ready-to-wear is that a bespoke garment’s shape will develop as it’s broken in. After the first few wears your garments will begin to settle. This is when you’ll get a much better feel for the fit. From here it’s important to maintain your garment’s shape and best upkeep via our recommendations below.

Dry Cleaning

Our advice is to do this as little as possible. Ideally, your bespoke garments should be dry cleaned no more than twice a year as the process uses chemicals that strip the natural oils found in the cloth. This damages the cloth and ultimately shortens the life of the garment. If the need for more cleaning were ever to arise, a good dry cleaner will be able to ‘spot clean’ any dirty areas.

It’s worth doing some research when selecting a dry cleaner, finding one accustomed to dealing with bespoke clothing. A good dry cleaner will bring out the shape in your garments rather than pressing them flat, as with ready to wear items. Regular pressing is fine and is considered best practice for the general care of bespoke suits and tailored garments.

Brushing

Your bespoke clothing should be regularly brushed, to ensure the cloth always looks its best. The process removes dirt, dust, and food particles. It also helps to redistribute the natural oils in the cloth fibres which will prolong the life of your bespoke clothing. We recommend lightly brushing after every wear, using a high quality, pure bristle brush – a selection of which are available to buy from our website.

Rotation

Another steadfast and fairly obvious rule in the bespoke garment wear and care armoury is rotation. Over wearing any garment is the best way to shorten its life. Resting and breathing in-between wear, as well as alternating with other clothing, will help to increase the life span of your bespoke wardrobe.

Storage

Use the best hangers you can afford. Wooden with rounded ends and a slight forward contour will help to keep shape in the shoulders of your jackets. A textured trouser crossbar will also prevent slippage to give the best hang for your trousers. Our beech wood garment hangers have been commissioned with bespoke clothing in mind. These can be bought via the website and in our London shops.

Another vital point – make sure you have enough space in your wardrobe, allowing your clothes to breathe. This also avoids creasing and stress to the garments, by too many garments being stuffed into a small space.

Sadly, moths are also an age old issue, as is the smell of mothballs! Our advice on this is to invest in a natural equivalent. Try introducing cedar wood or lavender to your wardrobe to keep them at bay.

Trouser Reforking

If you’re a heavy wearer of your trousers, be that suits or separates, often it’s the crotch that will be the first place to go. Should this happen, there is the option of inserting a replacement piece of cloth to ‘refork’ the trousers. A great way to extend the life of a trouser, this is a repair that can be repeated time and again.

Hopefully we’ve covered everything you need to know about caring for your bespoke clothing, but if you have any specific questions or require further advice, don’t hesitate to contact us directly.

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Today is one of those brilliantly, bright spring days that calls for strategic layering. What are you wearing?

Steve: My most recent commission, a bespoke 3-piece houndstooth suit. Having been on my wish list for a very long time, 2022 felt like the year to make it happen. It features a two-button, single breasted peak lapel jacket with 4 1/2” lapels, straight pockets and a ticket pocket. High-waisted trousers with a single inward facing pleat that I like to wear with suspenders, a 2’ inch waistband and turn-ups. The waistcoat is a six button single breasted style.

Coming out of a two year pandemic, this suit represented something of a reawakening, coinciding with our recent relocation to The Penthouse – a larger space in our original location, on W.57th Street. Breathtakingly grand, it reinforced the desire to dress up again and really look the part. Already a firm favourite in my regular closet rotation, proof that great things come to those who wait!

What inspires your personal style?

Steve: For me, inspiration comes in many forms. For my houndstooth suit it was a photo of myself as a toddler, wearing houndstooth trousers, and one of my favorite paintings “Le Cercle de la Rue Royale”, an 1868 group portrait by James Tissot, with two of the subjects wearing houndstooth trousers. Digging further into the cloth’s heritage, I was surprised to find that the oldest known occurrence of the houndstooth pattern is in the form of a cloak (The Gerum Cloak), found in a Swedish peat bog, dating back to 360-100 BC.

Coming from Belgium, we call the houndstooth pattern ‘pied-de-poule’. French for ‘hens-foot’, this is the shape you see in the cloth’s design. Close up it is very noticeable but from afar it’s surprising how muted the pattern becomes to the point that it almost looks like a solid grey suit.

What’s your general approach for putting together an outfit?

Steve: I always dress for the occasion. For work it’s a mix of suits and separates, incorporating a variety of ties and accessories to capitalise on individuality and flair. If I’m going out to a dinner straight after, then I’ll put together a look that will seamlessly cross over from daytime to nighttime.

However, a big consideration here in NY is the weather. Being so changeable, layering often plays a big part. When the temperature drops into the minuses, I’ll start with long-johns and end with heavy overcoat. I think winter is the best season to go for it sartorially, with the variations that three piece suits and layering offer, compared with the milder seasons, when jackets tend to come off and less is more.

Have you noticed a change in men’s dress codes since Covid?

Steve: We had one lockdown here in New York followed by a fairly informal summer. Then what felt like a shift back to formality after Labour Day (first Monday of September). The tie wasn’t there but guys went back to rocking the suits. Pocket squares with no ties was the trend I really noticed. A simple, crisp white silk or linen pocket square in lieu of a tie seemed to signal ‘back to work’.

Does the approach to suit wearing differ between London and New York?

Steve: I’d say there’s a split here between the expat community, who still dress conservatively – Oxford cap toe shoes, two and three piece suits – and the less formal American prep school of dress. It’s the footwear that gives it away. Roughly 75% of my customers wear loafers with their classic suits in navy, medium grey and the occasional glen check.

As well as being MD of Cad & The Dandy in New York, you also curate @thesnobreport on Instagram, which has a cult following. How did this come about?

Steve: I spent 23 years in a sales and marketing roles at corporate firms in Belgium. Being client facing I had to wear a shirt, suit and tie, and always enjoyed dressing the part. Friends, and colleagues would often ask my advice on dressing – do I need a pattern on this suit? what kind of suit is appropriate for this occasion?, etc. which coincided with a time when menswear was coming into its own on social media. I started dabbling with content creation which eventually lead to Instagram and finding a like-minded community, which continues to inspire me.

How did you start working in menswear?

Steve: In 2016 I left the corporate world, took a sabbatical and relocated to the US – a year to discover what I wanted to do. I was in New York and needed a suit for an event so I did a tour of Manhattan’s tailors. I ended up commissioning from P Johnson, and made some good friends there.

This lead to an offer to apprentice and learn the basics of tailoring. I’d always had a passion for both suits and customer relations. I was able to get off ‘the big corporate wheel’, while maintaining one-on-one relationships with customers, which was an aspect of my previous job I had always enjoyed.

A few years later I met James and Ian, founders of Cad and The Dandy, and the rest, as they say, is history……

Have you always loved dressing up?

Steve: Yes, from a young age. Both my parents loved dressing up too, for work and for events. I learned from them that when it rained there was proper attire for that. If it was snowing, there was another ‘dress code’. I became interested in these rules, reading lots of books and articles about them, eventually realising there’s more to clothes than ‘fashion’. Style and menswear evolve while fashion is cyclical. In your 20s, you discover your style, by your 30s you’ve hopefully figured it out. You know the rules and how to break them occasionally.

Were there any style mistakes along the way?

Steve: I went through a bold period when I started really getting into menswear – loud red pinstripes, purple overchecks. It was fun and I don’t regret it, but I learnt that the boldness can be tiring.

The switch from ready-to-wear to bespoke was definitely a learning curve, appreciating that there are more subtle way to express yourself, mostly through your choice of accessories. A beautiful navy suit will last you 10-15 years and is a good investment, but it’s in the accessories that you can really make a statement of style – striped shirt, pop up collar, a statement tie, bold socks. Others notice these subtle details and you get to have fun with the choices, without being stuck with an experimental suit you’ll grow tired of.

Who are your menswear style icons?

Steve: Oh that’s easy – Steve McQueen and Prince Michael of Kent. From morning to night, even in denim and a T shirt, they look impeccable. They always dress the part. They know the rules of dressing properly and they consistently get it right. Their clothes are fitted properly with styles that are very much their own. They wear their clothes, their clothes don’t wear them.

What advice would you give to someone looking to get into the world of menswear?

Steve: Open your eyes. There are so many visual stimuli out there. Start noticing people who’s style you admire and look at the choices, colours and fit as well as the things you are naturally drawn to. Don’t be afraid to get it wrong. And don’t be afraid to ask questions! There are so many interesting people in the menswear sphere, many of whom are happy to engage and converse about these things.

What’s your next bespoke commission?

Steve: Our cloth books are full of inspiration, with new seasonal arrivals being the most exciting. For the summer I’m looking at a solid seersucker suit, as opposed to the traditional striped or chequered kind. I’d also love a herringbone suit. The fact that the inside of the cloth is a different colour to the outside of the cloth gives me endless satisfaction. An unstructured buggy lined suit, that you can flash the inside of, looks beautiful. I’d go for something like this avocado green on the outside with a blue thread running through the inside.

In terms of construction, I like a structured shoulder with a little bit of roping – most guys need the help of structure! Towards spring/summer, a thinner shoulder and no roping gives quite a leisurely feel to a suit – easy to wear with a crew neck and sneakers. With seersucker, for example, I’ll go completely unstructured. That’ll be my ‘high summer in New York’ look.

Thanks for taking the time to chat with us. We’ll look forward to seeing you at the new showroom very soon!

Book a bespoke consultation with Steve in New York, online, via email nyc@cadandthedandy.com, call 917-400-4804.

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In the Regency period this country riding costume moved up the social scale and began to be worn in town, formalised by changing its russet colours to dark blue or black, and worn not with high-cut riding boots but with low-cut footwear more appropriate to club and ballroom. Today, the white tie ensemble remains the only early 19th century costume still in use apart from some uniforms.

But let’s get to what constitutes proper full evening dress today. When the invitation reads “White Tie” we are talking about the tailcoat and its accessories. The primary focus of the outfit is the coat, with a required cut so prescribed that it takes a very good tailor to make one. A tailcoat is made of black wool (although midnight blue is not inappropriate), usually either broadcloth, barathea or some other smooth unpatterned wool, with black silk facings, the front left unbuttoned (there are three dormant buttons placed far apart on either side of the front) and each side cut to curve slightly downwards to form points just below the waist. The tails themselves fall to the back of the knees.

Underneath the coat a white pique waistcoat is worn. A full-dress waistcoat is traditionally cut low in a deep V with a three-button front closure and either square or blunt-ended narrow lapels. Many men are puzzled about whether the waistcoat sits lower or higher than the lower edge of the tailcoat. The answer is that the tailcoat’s edge rests below the waistcoat. If the waistcoat sticks out below the coat a man will be thought to have rented the outfit.

The only difference between white tie trousers and black-tie trousers (read black tie post here) is that the former traditionally has two stripes down the outseam, while the latter has only one. In every other respect, both trousers are the same in design: made to be worn with braces and the finished bottoms uncuffed.

The full-dress shirt differs from the black-tie version in that it’s always a wing-collared shirt with a bib front, and between one and three holes for studs and single cuffs for cuff links. The white pique bow tie – either butterfly or batwing shape – sits in front of the collar wings, not behind them.

Footwear can be the same as for black tie dressing, but usually low-cut pumps are worn with plain black silk hose. A black silk top hat is the correct formal dress head covering and in winter a black, navy, or dark grey unadorned single-breasted overcoat or opera cape is usually worn.

All in all, the white tie occasion should be sartorially carefree. As long as the tailor does his work properly and follows tradition, we can all confidently get dressed without meddlesome choices. The whole ensemble may seem a bit intimidating but it’s really as pain-free as can be. Full dress formal occasions should be momentous and memorable, and the best way for that to happen is to thoroughly enjoy them with the confidence of being well-dressed.

Bespoke White Tie from £2250 (3pc)
Bespoke Dress Shirts from £180
Bespoke Pique Bow ties from £175

Find out more about our bespoke Formalwear
Book a Formalwear Consultation

Written for Cad & The Dandy by G. Bruce Boyer, a renowned expert on menswear and men’s fashion. The former menswear editor for Town & Country, he has authored, coauthored and contributed to numerous books on style and his feature articles have appeared in Esquire, Forbes, The New York Times, The Rake and Sarto Magazine, among other national and international magazines. Mr. Boyer has also co-curated several fashion exhibitions at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. He lives in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.

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Many are chaffing at the bit to step out in some real finery again. And for men, Black Tie dress – the tuxedo, dinner jacket, or le smoking if you will – is both the easiest and most attractive outfit a man can wear. Its basic form has a stability and simplicity denied to almost every ensemble worn by men in the last two hundred years. But many are completely at sea about formal wear. It’s something of a, what’s the word I’m looking for, ah yes, paradox. It’s easy, but impossible if you don’t know what you’re doing.

The solution is to understand that the simplicity of the dinner suit exists precisely because there are rules of wear. Whilst rules aren’t much in fashion these days, they can often make things easier, and with the dinner suit an understanding of a few simple rules makes dressing for a formal event a breeze. Trust me on this, the dinner suit and its accessories, is a minimalist outfit which functions to make a man more dignified and handsome. Historically the outfit served merely as a foil to the more colourful dress of women, but I’ll leave the political correctness of that discussion for another time.

In the 21st Century prescription, tradition, and propriety may not be often used in daily vocabulary but formal dress shows them to still be useful. And the fact is there’s a growing longing for some order in our lives. Specifically in the past several years there have been numerous experiments with social choices in matters of dress: casual business, retro, alternative formal, creative black tie, dress optional, and proliferating designer “looks”. It’s something of an irony that men who are capable of running huge conglomerates have no idea what to wear on any particular occasion except going to bed. Don’t get me started.

So let’s get to the few basic rules that govern traditional black-tie dress, beginning with the coat. The coat should be styled for simplicity. The most useful cloth for a year-round formal evening suit is a plain-woven wool in either black or midnight blue (the darkest blue). Either single or double-breasted, the evening coat has a ventless back and simple slit side pockets without flaps. Minimalism is the goal, no patterned cloth, a restrained silhouette, without flaps, yokes, throat latches, ticket pockets or other details found on suits and jackets. Occasionally a man may prefer turn-back cuffs on the sleeves, which is considered a bit dandyish, but acceptable.

Lapels, both single and double-breasted, are shaped in either shawl or peaked fashion, never notched. They are covered (“faced” in tailor’s terms) with either smooth or ribbed (grosgrain) silk which is traditionally the same colour as the cloth they are covering, i.e., black or midnight blue.

That’s all there is to the basic dinner jacket. However, there are a few options worth mentioning for those who want to step beyond basic prescription. Velvet smoking jackets, more traditionally worn for at-home parties, are now considered acceptable for almost any formal occasion. Colours range from black and dark blue to bottle green, burgundy, brown, and almost any other colour. Daniel Craig wore pink to the opening of his latest James Bond film. Winter dinner jackets can also be worn in patterned wool challis or tartan. These alternatives are viewed as slightly more casual than basic black or midnight blue, thought of as “country club” dinner jackets.

Warm weather alternatives can be lighter weight fabrics such as silk, linen, high-twist woollens and gabardines, and blended fabrics in brighter colours or pastels, but the most traditional and sophisticated colour remains off-white or cream. A very Palm Beach look.

Formal dress trousers differ from day trousers in three basic ways. The most obvious is the stripe of silk (the same silk used for the coat facings) running down the leg outseam. Tradition calls for braces rather than belt, with pleats or plain front being a matter of preference. Evening trousers are never cuffed.

A variety of waistcoat designs can be found, but all are cut lower than a suit waistcoat with only three or four buttons, are often backless for comfort and usually made in the same cloth as coat and trousers. Embroidered or striped silk, tartan, paisley, or other fancy waistcoats are considered bold, which is not to say wrong.

Waistcoats are another matter of preference, with cummerbunds (from the Hindi word kamarband, meaning a waist sash) sometimes worn instead, in the same fabric as the lapel facings. A quick tip: cummerbunds have pleats open at the top, used to store theatre tickets, loose change, cigar cutters, and other small items that a gentleman wouldn’t carry in his trouser pockets. In the 19th century these trousers were without pockets so as not to spoil the trim line of the leg.

Accessories begin with the formal dress shirt, in either lightweight cotton, linen, or silk, either with a plain or pleated bosom (the larger the man the wider the pleats) and either a wing collar (collar points go behind the bow tie) or simple turn-down. Formal shirts are usually pure white but cream is another popular preference. Three or four buttonholes are traditional, to accompany dress studs which match the cuff links for the turn-back (French) cuffs. The stud-and cuff links set is the only prescribed ornamentation apart from a white chest-pocket handkerchief and flower (boutonniere) for the lapel.

The bow tie is usually of the same fabric as the facings and follows the same rule as for shirt pleats: the larger the man, the larger the tie. Dandies might opt for polka dots, pastels, or even sequins perhaps, but those choices go far beyond the bounds of tradition.

And lastly a word about shoes. Evening footwear is characterised by being lightweight, black, and usually low-cut. Socks are plain black cotton lisle, silk, or lightweight merino wool. Dancing has always been associated with evening entertainment, so footwear should be comfortable: plain black leather or patent leather oxfords, or opera pumps, or velvet slippers with monograms.

All of this is not to say how the clothes should be worn. Many wear their formal kit as though they were Prussian generals on the reviewing stand. So stiff, as we used to say in my old neighbourhood, they couldn’t swing if you hanged them. The trick to wearing any clothes is to wear them like you mean it, with simple, natural grace. Look at the old films of Fred Astaire, the man wore evening dress with effortless comfort, as though wearing pyjamas. That’s style, that’s the way to go.

Bespoke Dinner Suit from £1400 (2pc)
Bespoke Dinner Jacket from £1140
Bespoke Formal Trousers £310

Find out more about our bespoke Formalwear
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Written for Cad & The Dandy by G. Bruce Boyer, a renowned expert on menswear and men’s fashion. The former menswear editor for Town & Country, he has authored, coauthored and contributed to numerous books on style and his feature articles have appeared in Esquire, Forbes, The New York Times, The Rake and Sarto Magazine, among other national and international magazines. Mr. Boyer has also co-curated several fashion exhibitions at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. He lives in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.

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Over the course of Covid-19, the professional male dress code experienced its greatest upheaval since the “Dress Down Friday” revolution that swept offices in the 1990’s. The long march to casualisation, which began decades ago by exchanging suit and tie for open-collared shirts and chinos, reached its apex as we attended endless Zoom meetings from our sofas in trackies and t-shirts.

In that moment, it felt as if the forces of comfort and convenience had at last triumphed over the two-piece suit, consigning it to the same ash heap of history where powdered wigs and frock coats lay, forgotten and unmourned.

However, it’s worth remembering that we didn’t discard our professional attire out of some organic sea change in the population’s thinking, but out of necessity following an unprecedented global pandemic. And now that the pandemic has begun to recede, we can take stock of how we felt about a year in hooded sweatshirts and elastic-waistband pants.

As the proprietors of a bespoke tailoring house on Savile Row, we’re a bit biased on the subject. But we think we speak for many when we say we’re ready to put the last 17 months behind us and get reacquainted with the suit as office life, social occasions, theatre and more come humming back to life.

If you work in one of the professions that still requires a suit and tie to be worn, such as banking or law, you might already be thinking of how to get back in the sartorial saddle. To which we reply: don’t sweat it. The true beauty of the suit is how little it changes over time. If you want proof, look at photos of the Duke of Windsor as a young man: the two-piece suits worn by the one-time king a century ago would scarcely look out of place today.

Which is to say, the suit that’s been hanging in the back of your closet since March 2020 hasn’t fallen out of style since its last wear. However, it might not fit you the way it once had, and you wouldn’t want your grand reunion with suiting to be marred by a fit that’s uncomfortably small or large. In that case, it’s an excellent opportunity to rebuild your wardrobe with one of the classics—say, a navy fresco or grey flannel.

Or perhaps your old kit fits you just fine (to which we say, bravo) but you’re enthusiastic about making a fresh impression when you’re again shaking hands or picking up the lunch tab. This is a chance to confidently stride back into suiting with something subtly patterned like a faint windowpane or pinstripe, or a solid with an interesting texture such as birdseye or nailhead.

And naturally, we’ll be the first to answer any of your questions about striding back into suiting, whether your wardrobe is going through a “rebuild” phase or if you’re looking to do something fresh and new when it comes to the work wardrobe. And next week, we’ll be taking a look at how those working in slightly more casual environs might strategise building out their back-to-office kit.

Cad & The Dandy bespoke two-piece suits start at £1200. For more information, email savilerow@cadandthedandy.co.uk, call +44 (0)20 7434 4344 or book a consultation.

Written for Cad & The Dandy by Eric Twardzik, a Boston-based writer focused on food, drink and classic men’s style. His work has appeared on Vice.com, Robb Report, InsideHook, Ivy-Style.com and more.

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Team Talk – Stephen Allen
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The post A Return to the Office, Part I: Following Suit appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

B: How did you come to the world of bespoke tailoring?

Stephen: My father was a tailor at Kilgour’s in the 50s and 60s. He was a coat maker. My uncle was also a coat maker, my cousin is a cutter… You could say it’s in the blood, but I didn’t grow up dreaming of Savile Row. I thought I’d give it a go, as something to do, but once I started at London College of Fashion I fell in love. I started helping out at different houses while still at college and then went straight into an apprenticeship at Well’s of Mayfair, with a pit stop at Helier Couture on the way.

B: Wow, but you’re a Head Cutter, not a Coat Maker now… Why did you pivot?

Stephen: Fairly early on I realised constructing the garment patterns was more exciting to me than producing a garment from start to finish. When I went to (Anderson & Sheppard), I was introduced to the ‘rock of eye’ approach to pattern cutting, that combines the architectural knowledge of tailoring with a little creative licence. I developed a taste for that use of creative licence.

B: Ah, I guess sometimes, when you know the rules, you’re allowed to break them.

Stephen: Exactly. It’s a delicate balance. I went onto work at (Huntsman/other houses) where the approach was more by the book, and that has its merits too. After all, trends may inform the cut of a suit, but bespoke tailoring has its roots in tradition.

B: What do you find to be the most flattering cut for a suit?

Stephen: I couldn’t narrow it down to a ‘most’ – tailoring is the antithesis of a one size fits all approach, but personally I find a single breasted jacket with a one button cutaway front to be the most flattering. A high armhole allows for ease of movement, and a soft shoulder tends to look a little more casual. Generally, there are no hard and fast rules, only guidelines. For a three piece suit, I’m always looking for synergy between the three garments, but for separates it’s different.

B: We’ve talked cut, let’s talk cloth. What’s your go to bunch?

Stephen: I like the HFW Fresco bunch, but I don’t play favourites. It contains different weights of wool but they’re all open weave so it’s breathable even at the heavier end, which is good if, like me, you like a suit with more drape, which tends to make up better with heavier cloth. I met Gregory Peck while I was an apprentice, aged 19, and his suits, which had excellent drape, informed my taste in suiting. His look struck me as timeless, but then of course he was a a screen legend, and everyone was using heavier cloth back then…

B: You’re not wearing a lot of heavy looking cloth today! Talk me through your separates look.

Stephen: This is a look that I like to call my ‘cruise look’, because I once wore it on a cruise, and hope to again. The jacket is from the HFW Bamboo bunch, which I discovered when a customer asked to see the vegan bunches. Not many people know about bamboo as a cloth, but it’s got a similar handle to cashmere, meaning it’s soft and and flowy, but comes at a keener price. It’s a lightweight 9 oz, but you get to wear it in the autumn as well. It’s a notch lapel single breasted jacket in a nautical navy. The trousers are cut from a textured linen mix in light grey from the Harrisons Seashell bunch. They’re mid-weight, but an open weave, so they’re great for warm weather. The pleat and wide 19 inch bottoms also help so plenty of airflow. As I said, perfect for a cruise.

B: Here’s hoping. Thank you for your time, Stephen.

Book a consultation with Stephen, via our online booking service.

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The post TEAM TALK – STEPHEN ALLEN appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.

What started as Dress Down Friday has evolved to become a less restrictive office dress code applied throughout the working week. Still, this new approach is no excuse for sloppy or inappropriate dressing. After all, its important to maintain your professionalism at the office – efficient but relaxed at the same time.

We all know that a little effort goes a long way so, bearing the seasons in mind, we’ve put together some tips to keep you looking your best in this new era of business casual.

SPRING & AUTUMN

Not warm, not cold either. Mix your bespoke separates for some stand-out looks.

Best foot forward in the form of a stunning suede chukka boot – a staple that can be worn for most of the year. Some light cotton chinos in a mid weight cotton, cashmere mix or bamboo will ensure all day comfort.

Opt for a tailored oxford shirt with a button down collar or a light knitted polo shirt, underneath a mid or deep tone unstructured blazer. Complete this relaxed but smart look with a pocket square, a chronograph watch and a slim wallet.

SUMMER

The sun is shining and temperatures are on the rise. Staying cool is a must, but shorts in the office are simply not an option.

Ideal summer choices come in the form of lightweight 2-piece suits and separates in neutral shades of oatmeals and pale pastels. Combine with a soft cotton shirt or high-quality plain white t-shirt, neatly tucked into your suit trousers. Pair with some all-white trainers, avoiding any noticeable branding. Overall, you want to keep things understated and simple.

Wear with no-show socks and keep accessories to a minimum – a simple watch and an all-important pocket square to add a flash of contrast colour. Not forgetting the essential finishing touch, a good pair of summer shades. Wayfarers and aviators are a classic choice while a club master or rounded lens give a more daring look.

WINTER

Cold weather brings the opportunity to wear flannels and tweeds. Easily the best of the casual bunch, these cloths make layering and separates a simple option.

Starting at the bottom, a pair of leather boots with a rubber sole and some warm socks will perfectly complement a pair of tweed or flannel trousers. Add a soft knit, long sleeved polo shirt or brushed cotton shirt under a fine knit sweater. Combine with an unstructured jacket in a contrasting cloth or a matching classic suit jacket.

Top it off with an overcoat in a mid to heavy weight cloth with a raglan cut sleeve. This cut allows for less restrictive movement, while still retaining an elegant silhouette. Finish with a soft knit scarf and smart leather gloves. A statement watch and elegant laptop case complete the necessary style components for the most challenging weather days.

Book a Consultation with one of our tailors for your workwear wardrobe refresh.

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The post New Business Rules: Relaxed Seasonal Tailoring appeared first on Cad & The Dandy.