It was the early Fifties. Britain was still a dark and austere place, in its post-war existence. The tailors of Savile Row are a secretive world, their shop windows still blacked-out from the war, their inner sanctum a complete mystery to the world outside.
One man blew this world apart. His name was Tommy Nutter and he became known as the Rebel on the Row.
The scene has already been set for Nutter by the time the Swinging Sixties had arrived in London for a whole array of colourful men’s wear shops exploded onto the scene like a psychedelic rainbow. John Pearson opened up Granny Takes a Trip whilst Mr Fish stocked shirts and ties in every available colour. A new era in men’s clothing had arrived.
Nutter’s own background was that of a sales assistant when he met Edward Sexton, a cutter who had trained with Kilgour, French and Stanbury, one of the great bespoke tailors of Savile Row. Sexton supplied the genius cutting and Nutter a host of brilliant ideas and thus a memorable partnership began.
Cilla's suit made by Tommy
Whilst Dougie Hayward was beloved by the film industry, Nutter carved out a niche as a tailor to the world of pop and rock. Indeed, when his first shop opened in 1969, Cilla Black and her husband Bobby were one of his financial backers. (Indeed, these this 3 piece suit was made for Cilla in 1972 and she wistfully regrets the fact it no longer fits!)
Nutter’s Savile Row establishment was strikingly different from the start. Its plate glass front was opened up to the gaze of the public, thus making it accessible to the world. The interior was a curious mixture of architectural salvage, old and new furniture and mirrored walls. Savile Row looked on unperturbed and gave the sartorial upstarts six months.
However, Tommy was to prove his critics all wrong. His suits epitomised style, confidence and flamboyance, summed up by Elton John who said, “Tommy completely glamorised Savile Row”.
So what exactly was the Nutter style? Tommy’s trademark look was to match the trim on the suit lapels to the trim on the patch pockets thus ensuring a unique look and one that gave the jacket an air of homogeneity. But Tommy’s genius was to adapt his style to the character of his clients, to create a look that captured the essence of their personality.
A typical cream suit by Tommy
For Prince Rajsinh of Rajpipla, (who became an avid customer) he created an exotic brocade jacket for a sophisticated evening look. This dates from the 1970s. The cream suit dates from the same era; both suit trousers are based on a 1930s cut which was baggier than the current normal trend.
This suit for Neil Sedaka picks up on pop flamboyance of the Seventies. Neil’s patchwork waistcoat is balanced out with a plaid wool jacket and dates from 1975. Neil had several clothes made by Nutter and he also commissioned Tommy to make an outfit for his little boy.
Neil Sedaka's jacket and waistcoat
Tommy’s order book reads like a roll call of famous rock stars – Mick Jagger, Charlie Watts, Maurice Gibb, the Beatles, Elton John….
And rock stars had their little quirks. There is a cream double-breasted jacket and trousers, made for Charlie Watts who liked a narrower cut on his trousers than his fellow Stones member, Mick Jagger.
Maurice Gibb's green velvet suit
Jagger has embraced bright colours in his suits for most of his life – just a few weeks ago, the 68 year old rocker was snapped wearing a bright pink suit. Nutter made green and yellow suits in bright citrus colours for him whilst crafting this elegant green suit for Maurice Gibb in 1976.
Elton John loved the Nutter look too and in 1984, he commissioned Tommy to make his stage jumpsuits for his “I’m Still Standing” tour.
In 1976, Tommy left Nutters in Savile Row and the business continued under Sexton, Chittleborough and Morgan. He moved into ready to wear, producing a collection for Kilgour and in 1988 he opened a new shop in Savile Row where he continued to produce his distinctive suits. Such was Tommy’s reputation that two talented juniors, Timothy Everest and John Galliano both joined the firm.
By the 1990s, Tommy’s health was in decline and he sadly died in 1992, way before his time. But his legacy lives on in his suits, which were kept and cherished by his customers and these remain a striking monument to the cutting skills of Savile Row.
Tommy Nutter – the Rebel on the Row exhibition continues at the Fashion and Textile Museum until the 22 October 2011.
Vince Morse – the Code Name for Stupid
Actress Jessie Wallace has had a lucky escape. Just before her impending nuptials, her erstwhile finance´, Vince Morse sent an explicit photo of Jessie to his ex-girlfriend, Karen Short.
According to our Vinnie, it was because he was “drunk and showing off.”
Vince is so stupid he cannot clock you are supposed to send saucy photographs of yourself, not your fiancee´ to any available third-party girlfriend. Even Ashley Cole managed to get that bit right.
Vince is also stupid because he cannot even tie a bow tie straight. Girls, never trust a bloke whose bow tie lists off the horizontal. It’s a sure sign of a cad, a bounder or just a plain loser. Someone whose condition is “as crooked as his carcass,“ to quote the dashing Elizabethan, Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex.
Jessie has cancelled the wedding and has remained holed-up in her house in Surrey, scoffing the wedding cup-cakes and watching her wedding flowers die, in an attempt to alleviate her misery.
Jessie, you deserve better. Be patient and your Mr Right will come along. And next time make sure he can tie the knot properly.
By Miss Dandy
Setting the Tone
Neutral Gear
Transparency
Fringe Benefits
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