Suit Cloth – The Super Numbers

Many of you, whether first time customers or seasoned bespoke suit wearers, will have come across a term referring to suit cloth weight, namely the ‘super numbers’. So, what exactly do these terms and numbers mean?

The ‘super number’ refers to the yarn count of a suit cloth and is used to state the fineness of the individual wool fibres used in the cloth. A thread count of Super 100 or higher denotes a ‘fine quality wool’.

What determines this number grading is that of the micron diameter of the individual threads used in the weave (a micron equals 0.00003937 of an inch or 0.001mm). So, a Super 150 suit cloth has a micron count of 15.5. A Super 180 has a greater micron count with more, and finer, individual yarns in the weave. A Super 100 has a lesser micron count with fewer, and more robust, individual yarns in the weave.

Some might say that the finer the cloth, the better the suit but that’s not entirely true. Not only will the higher micron count, and therefore finer fabric, be more expensive, it can also be prone to crease more easily and suffer greater wear than it’s heavier counterparts. Different super numbers provide different qualities. It’s also worth bearing in mind that high super numbers are not always indicative of a quality suit cloth in the same way lower super numbers do not mean the cloth will be horribly coarse or poor quality.

A medium weight suit cloth is less prone to such damage, generally lasting longer and travelling better. We’re not suggesting the ideal is to be walking around in carpet thick material but a Super 100 to 120 should more than suffice. You have to go some way to beat a mid-weight English Super wool cloth, particularly those from the mills of Huddersfield and Somerset.

It is now relatively standard for suit cloth manufacturers to include the cloth’s super number or weight in their bunches, be it Super 100s, 120s, 150s or 180s, giving you more of the information you need to make the right cloth choice. At Cad & The Dandy, we stock a wide range of cloths and our expert tailors are on hand to advise on the best weight for your bespoke suit’s purpose.

Whether a business suit, wedding suit or simply for leisure, selecting one of these cloths combined with our bespoke suit making expertise means you are guaranteed a perfect fit and a most elegant garment. View our suit galleries and get inspiration for your next bespoke suit purchase or book an appointment to discuss your needs.

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